Gold and emerald 'Hindou' necklace, René Boivin, 1950s

Designed as a series of graduated geometric links set with pear-shaped and circular-cut emeralds, between woven gold cords, to a similarly set clasp, French assay marks, unsigned. length approximately 340mm. Estimate 25,000—45,000 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Important Jewels sale catalogue, Sotheby's London, 5th December 1997, lot 61 and René Boivin Joaillier, Francoise Caille, Les Editions de l'Amateur, Paris 1994, page 329 for examples of necklaces of similar design respectively set with rubies and diamonds, and diamonds.

NOTES: Rene Boivin, who founded the firm under his name in the 1890s, was married to the sister of the celebrated couturier Paul Poiret. Herself a designer, Jeanne Boivin continued the firm after her husband's untimely death in 1917. An isolated woman in a field dominated by men, she gathered around her a first-rate team of female designers beginning with Suzanne Belperron, who remained with the firm until 1933. After Belperron's departure, daughters Germaine Boivin and Juliette Moutard became responsible for some of the firm's most innovative designs of the late 1930s and 40s which were lauded at many international exhibitions. The Duchess of Windsor, Lauren Bacall, King Farouk and Daisy Fellowes were among Boivin's regular clients at their premises at 6 avenue de l'Opera. The firm's pieces were distinctive for their varying textures and combination of materials; Jeanne Boivin was perhaps the first jeweller to introduce wood in her creations.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 19 Nov 08. Geneva. Photo Courtesy Sotheby's. www.sothebys.com