Pair of ruby and diamond pendant-earrings, circa 1835

Designed as chains of oval and lozenge-shaped clusters suspended from quatrefoil surmounts, set with 8 cushion-shaped and round rubies and numerous cushion-shaped diamonds, the diamonds weighing approximately 11.00 carats, mounted in gold and silver, with later added clip fittings. Estimate 50,000—70,000 USD. Lot sold 89,500 USD.

PROVENANCE: The Thurn und Taxis Collection, Sotheby's Geneva, November 17, 1992, lot 184.

These earrings were purchased by Fürst Johannes for his wife Gloria at Christie's in Geneva, May 1982, lot 586. By tradition they were given by King Louis Philippe (1773-1850) to his youngest daughter Princess Clementine d'Orlèans (1817-1907) who was married at St. Cloud in 1843 to August, Prince of Saxe-Coberg and Gotha, Duke in Saxony (1818-1881). They passed from her to her eldest daughter Princess Clotilde (1846-1927) who in 1864 married Archduke Joseph of Austria (1833-1905). Their daughter, the Archduchess Margarete-Clementine-Marie of Austria (1870-1955) who became the wife of Prince Albert von Thurn und Taxis (1867-1952) on July 15 1890, inherited the earrings.

NOTE: With original lot tag from the Thurn and Taxis sale.

The length of the earrings dates them to between the late 1820s when the fashion for long specimens arose, to the early 1840s when it declined. See Henri Vever, La Bijouterie Française au XIX Siècle, Vol. I, pp. 151 and 189. Lozenge motifs similar to the ones on the present earrings appear on chains and other jewels of the period, see Vever, pp. 163 and 188.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 09 Dec 08. New York. photo courtesy Sotheby's. www.sothebys.com