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Alain.R.Truong
18 janvier 2009

Milan Fall 2009 Men : Marni

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Photo: Courtesy of Marni

Marni's menswear suffered on the catwalk. There simply wasn't enough there there. This season's showroom presentation offered an opportunity to explore the strengths—and the weaknesses—of Consuelo Castiglioni's collection for men. There still wasn't an awful lot to it, but, honing a fetishist's eye for detail, one could extract some substance. Cue Consuelo's fixation on Kim Gordon's watercolors. She wasn't so entranced by the Sonic Youth concert she saw, but she loved Kim's artwork enough to get her to contribute a T-shirt graphic. From that it was possible to extrapolate a grungy subtext in the collection, particularly with an acid-green mohair sweater, or a Seattle-worthy long-john-and-sweatshirt combo. Admittedly, the latter was in cashmere, which supported Consuelo's affection for the notion of "elegant punk." And it was a similar spirit that took classic menswear emblems—like the striped shirt, the camel coat, the duffel coat—and warped them into Marni-land. (Patchwork the stripes, razor-cut the hems on the camel, line the duffel with button-out shearling—that's how it's done.).-- Tim Blanks www.men.style.com

Silhouettes très intéressantes. Difficile de porter ces leggings en ville du moins pour moi (j'en porte de pareil chez moi...), mais je gage que les jeunes gens s'en empareront. On en trouve chez American Apparel. Of course, le chic serait de les avoir en cachemire pour la douceur et le confort... Le costume au pantalon court fait penser que Thom Browne a fait des émules, même en Italie!

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