Photo: Marcio Madeira

"Mysterious, romantic, sober." That's how Ennio Capasa defined the man behind his new collection for Costume National. Maybe he didn't mean sobriety quite so literally, but if those words describe David Bowie (famously sober after years of self-abuse), then that's absolutely perfect, because his spirit hovered over the show—and Ennio has been working with him on his wardrobe lately.

The key piece of the latest Costume collection was the waistcoat (à la Bowie in his Thin White Duke incarnation), worn over turtles and tees. Capasa paired it with baggy, pleated pants for the requisite Weimar vibe, and threw an unmatched jacket over the top for a loose contemporary take on the three-piece suit. The monochrome palette—also very mid-period Bowie—was sparked by the red soles of the chunky shoes and the lining of an evening coat. Otherwise, memories to cherish included the Alice Dellal-type 'do on model Jethro "Son-of-Nick" Cave, and the elevating, New Wave-ish whiff of the polyurethane catwalk.— Tim Blanks www.men.style.com