Photo: Marcio Madeira

The invitation to D&G's latest show came from Oscar Wilde, even though he's been dead for a century. That's the resurrective power of fashion, at least as it's channeled by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. But there was method to their madness. Wilde's thing was as fin-de-siècle as the endgame that mesmerizes society right now. And his transgressive cast of characters made a riveting parade for D&G. Against a backdrop of Wildean quotes and music by the Verve, Domenico and Stefano showed rococo Ruritanian military jackets with distressed jeans, shirts, and pants printed with equally rococo swagging, a biker jacket in astrakhan, and combinations of moiré and jacquard that hinted at an aristocratic opium dream. Floral-printed velvets, flocked brocade, and a tee printed with Jacques-Louis David's Leonidas at Thermopylae (phew!) amplified the entirely aesthetic nature of the collection. Frankly, as the last show of Milan's men's calendar for Fall 2009, it was refreshing to see something that was reckless enough to go Out There. When options shrivel to naught, hell-bent for leather doesn't seem half bad.— Tim Blanks www.men.com