Gold, Ruby and Pearl Brooch, Louis Wièse, Circa 1890

The circular brooch in the archaeological style depicting the profile of a warrior, possibly Minerva in relief, framed with cabochon rubies and pearls, to a gold rope and bead work border, signed WIESE, French assay marks and maker's mark Wiese with a star above and below within a horizontal lozenge. Estimate 12,000—18,000 GBP

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Michael Koch, The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910, Thomas Heneage, London, 1990, page 96-97 where a gold archaeological revival pendant and chain are described and illustrated.

NOTE : Pearls untested.

Louis Wièse went to considerable lengths to give his jewels the appearance of age. His archaeological revival pieces were treated with mercury oxide, producing a reddish patina intended to give the impression that his jewels were ancient artefacts recovered from the ground. Using high carat gold and deliberately having the brooch misshapen also adds to the allusion that this could be an ancient jewel were it not for the Wiese signature on the reverse.

Sotheby's. Fine Jewels. 19 Mar 09. London www.sothebys.com photo courtesy Sotheby's