Andrew GN Fall 2009 RTW

9 mars 2009

photo Marcio Madeira

Andrew Gn traded in the lush, tropical colors of his Spring show for a more subdued Fall lineup of black, white, and herringbone tweed, with shots of teal, bronze, and bottle-green. Last season's gold-bullion embroidery and gobstopper-size crystal and gem embellishments have been downsized, too—replaced by less flashy surface detailing: trims of patent leather, snake, or (in his made-to-measure Atelier line) mock croc. These appeared on the neckline of a red cocktail dress, at the waistband of cropped and tapered pants, at the edges of geometric cutouts on silk blouses, and on the toggle closures of slim-line coats.

If some of Gn's more tony ladies are forced by his new restraint to look elsewhere for their trifles, his daywear's dark and moody vibe is likely to win him some hip new customers. It will probably prove a savvy move to have dialed down the before-dark glitz in a collection he dubbed "utility couture."

Evening was another story, however. His floor-length columns came with jewels nestled into their necklines or perched on one shoulder. The best was a chiffon number with hand-stitched organza bell sleeves and iridescent crystal embroidery inspired by thirties Cartier jewelry. Gn knows that the only utility in a gown is its ability to turn heads. By Nicole Phelps www.style.com

Andrew GN aux Beaux-Arts mise sur le superluxe des finitions en python ou en vernis sur un brocart de soie façon croco. Les fermoirs d‘un manteau en crêpe de laine ivoire sont réalisés à la main, idem pour le tweed du boléro bordé de microsequins. C’est ultrachic, précieux, moins gentil que d‘habitude, un peu plus décidé. Est-ce dû aux noir et marine omniprésents ? La robe en crêpe à décolleté voilé d’organza est parfaite comme le caban en renard vert bouteille à épaules pagode.

photo Marcio Madeira

Le soir, ses modèles haute couture, sous l‘étiquette Atelier, font rêver comme ce fourreau bleu nuit à broderies Art déco inspirées d’un bijou Cartier 1930 ou ce manteau en cachemire double face brodé de jais et de carrés de cuir comme des écailles de croco… Du très très bon Andrew GN. Virginie Mouzat, Le Figaro madame.lefigaro.fr