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11 avril 2009

Roberto Capucci at Palazzo Fortuny

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Roberto Capucci . La donna gioiello[Woman jewel]. Black red and white taffetas, mask in red fibreglass, red white and black headcap, red and white brass enamel strings. Costume by Roberto Capucci for the Venice Carneval Kindly donated by the artist to the Fortuny Museum, February 1984 . Photo: Andrea Melzi and Efrat Kuper

Roberto Capucci and Mariano Fortuny: artistic forms and ideas.
Mariano – painter, set designer, inventor of lights and costumes, alchemist of fabric prints; Roberto – artist-architect, creator of complex forms for exhibitions, created with the techniques of clothing but conceived as sculptures. Two learned, refined artists, able to traverse the world of fashion, leaving behind the permanent mark of their genius.
The Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia is paying homage to Roberto Capucci with a remarkable exhibition at Palazzo Fortuny, Mariano’s home-atelier, documenting the evolution of this period in the artistic maestro’s development with thirty dress-sculptures, created between 1978 and 2009.

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Roberto Capucci. Ventaglio[Fan]. Sculpture-dress in red sauvage with fan-shaped insets in the sides. First exhibited: Palazzo Barberini, Rome, 1980. Photo: Andrea Melzi and Efrat Kuper

Enfant prodige of Fashion, in 1951 Capucci opened his first atelier when he was just twenty. Thanks to his studies, first at an artistic high school and then at the Academy of Fine Arts, he not only learned the history of art, but also the techniques of painting, models, drawing and graphics. The former gave him his cultural awareness and vision, the second the tools to study and verify new methods and approaches. It is none other than these studies and formal experimentation, that have continued unceasingly until today and been marked by awards and inventions, that have characterised his creative development.
In particular, the works on display here show the transition and decisive choice in the artistic field of his production in the last thirty years and his manifold sources of inspiration: the plant kingdom and the fundamental elements (Water, Earth, Air, and Fire) and physical phenomena to artistic references. Hence the pure colours of the Beato Angelico; wide sleeves and extravagant trains as in Pisanello, Benozzo Gozzoli, Paolo Uccello; the velvets and sartorial details of Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto; larger hips as in Velasquez; and then Tiepolo, to whom he publicly pays homage. Analysing it through his own sensitivity and culture, he also mastered all the novelties and suggestions of the 1900s.

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Roberto Capucci. Onda [Wave].  Sculpture-dress smokey green mikado ‘wave line’ effect, multicoloured red Mikado
lining. First exhibited: Museum of the Roberto Capucci Foundation, Florence, 2007Photo: Andrea Melzi and Efrat Kuper

However, above all, his entire production goes back to the eternal human dream of overcoming one’s own limits, through the creation of clothes of impossible dimensions, with asymmetrical offshoots, the wings of a bird or butterfly, silk gushes, long tails …. In these works the natural shapes of the body are surpassed into a sort of “divine”, abstract dimension that is devoid of material, physical or temporal needs.

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Roberto Capucci . Foglie [Leaves].  Sculpture-dress brown velvet with satin cones on the sides and ramage of
multicoloured leaves  First exhibited: Museum of the Roberto Capucci Foundation, Florence, 2007  Photo: Andrea Melzi and Efrat Kuper

From the famous Colonna [Column] dress – that marked a rift with sartorial traditional that, at the end of the 1970s, heralded the start of his dress-sculptures phase, to the Ventaglio [Fan], the symbol of creative freedom; his creations in the 1980s - with insets in the shape of panels, tubes, flowers, boxes, capitals .... - including Fuoco [Fire], with the volume of the plissé tending upwards, …. and the outstanding works of the 1990s, that made Capucci’s name in the art world, resulting in his participation at the Centenary Venice Biennale (1995) and exhibitions in the greatest museums in the world. The exhibition includes some of his most recent works, in the shape of Spire [Spires], Onda [Wave], Fogli [Leaves], Linee [Lines], Crete [Clay], and, created specifically for the occasion, the novel wedding dress-sculpture, in Mikado fire red silk, at the very beginning of the exhibition.

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Roberto Capucci . Spire [Spires].  Sculpture dress black velvet with spiral multicoloured plissè element and black inset
on breast. First exhibited: Museum of the Roberto Capucci Foundation, Florence, 2007 Photo: Andrea Melzi and Efrat Kuper

The exhibition is in collaboration with the Roberto Capucci Foundation, with the technical support of Bonaveri, Bolliger, Rado and the Veneta Artigianale. The fabric for the fire red wedding dress was donated by Corsil Tessitura Serica, Montorfano (Como).

Curated by Daniela Ferretti, Enrico Minio and Milly Passigli.

The catalogue is by Skira, with contributions by Carlo Bertelli and Doretta Davanzo Poli.

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Roberto Capucci.Crete [Clay].  Sculpture-dress in sarcenet taffeta. Plissé cup effect with train. First exhibited: National Gallery of Modern Art, Rome, 1989. Photo: Andrea Melzi and Efrat Kuper

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