Diamond bangle-bracelet, Cartier, France, circa 1930
The hinged bangle studded with 140 old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 30.00 carats, mounted in platinum, internal circumference approximately 5½ inches, signed Cartier, Made in France, maker's mark, French assay marks. Est. 70,000—90,000 USD
Lot Sold 230,500 USD
NOTE: This bracelet by Cartier displays a luminosity and brightness resulting from the exclusive use of diamonds and platinum, two of the most noble and enduring materials to be found in any jeweler's repertoire. It is noted in Platinum by Cartier, that "Cartier continued to use it (platinum) for the top of his line...These were fabulous creations...These inventions were bound for those clients who had no need to fear for the period and its threats of penury..." The economic crisis that followed the stock market crash of 1929 might have limited some jewelers, but Cartier used platinum to define the look of their jewels. An outstanding example from this period is the pair of platinum, rock crystal and diamond bracelets made by Cartier in 1930 for the Hollywood actress Gloria Swanson, which clearly reflect a preference for volume, boldness and dramatic effect. The fashion of wearing thick, strap bracelets of "white-on-white" (platinum and diamonds) was certainly a trend in the 1920's, however in the years following the Paris Exhibition of 1925, the bangle or cuff form begins to emerge with a renewed vigor.
Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 23 Apr 09. New York www.sothebys.com Photo courtesy Sotheby's