A rare "mystery-set" ruby and diamond brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Designed as two calibré-cut ruby laurel leaves, enhanced by calibré-cut diamond stems, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, 1936, with French assay marks and maker's marks, in a Garrard blue leather fitted case. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 45504 - Est. $250,000 - $350,000

Literature: Van Cleef & Arpels, Diffusion Paris-Musées, Paris, 1992, page 80

Post-Lot Text: According to Van Cleef & Arpels, this brooch was made in the Langlois workshop in Paris. This was the only Van Cleef & Arpels workshop which specialized in mystery-set jewelry from the 1930s. 

A suite of ruby, emerald and diamond jewelry, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Comprising a sautoir, suspending a detachable ruby bead tassel pendant, with a carved cabochon emerald cap accented by sculpted gold and circular-cut diamond detail, from a carved cabochon ruby within a sculpted gold and circular-cut diamond foliate surround, to the neckchain designed as a graduated series of navette-shaped textured gold links, each set with a cluster of ruby or emerald beads, accented by gold star detail and circular-cut diamonds, spaced by carved emerald beads; and a pair of ear pendants, each suspending a detachable circular-cut diamond foliate pendant, set with a carved emerald bead and trimmed by a triple loop of ruby beads, from a two-tiered circular-cut diamond plaque surmount, centering upon a carved emerald bead, mounted in gold, necklace 27 ins., (may also be worn as a shorter necklace, 22¼ ins.), ear clips with maker's marks, in a Van Cleef & Arpels gray suede case. Necklace and ear pendants signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., necklace no. 45470, ear pendants nos. 42726 and 585. Est. $150,000 - $200,000

A set of diamond, ruby and sapphire "haricot" clip brooches, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Each designed as a tapered scrolling band, with graduated lines of circular-cut diamonds and either baguette-cut diamonds, rubies or sapphires, mounted in platinum, may also be worn as hair ornaments, with Swiss assay marks and maker's marks. Each signed Van Cleef & Arpels, diamond brooch no. BL72849, ruby and diamond brooch no. ML4947, and sapphire and diamond brooch no. ML4293 (3)

A set of retro sapphire, ruby and diamond "capillaire" jewelry, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Comprising a brooch, designed as a bouquet of cushion-cut sapphire and circular-cut ruby blossoms, with circular-cut diamond buds and sculpted gold stems; and a pair of ear clips en suite, mounted in yellow and white gold, 1944, each in a Van Cleef & Arpels blue suede pouch. Each signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., brooch no. 7360, ear clips no. 6024 (2). Est. $25,000 - $35,000

A set of diamond, sapphire and ruby jewelry, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Comprising a brooch, centering upon an oval cabochon sapphire, extending four lozenge-shaped plaques, each set with a circular-cut diamond "X," decorated at the cardinal points with clusters of circular-cut rubies and sapphires; and a pair of ear clips en suite, mounted in gold, brooch 1968. Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 39641, ear clips signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., no. 39916. With a letter from Van Cleef & Arpels stating that the brooch was manufactured by Van Cleef & Arpels in New York in 1968  Est. $15,000 - $20,000

Christie's. Jewels: The New York Sale and TheAnnenberg Diamond. 21 October 2009. New York, Rockefeller Plaza www.christies.com