A magnificent diamond ring, signed by J. Roca, composed of a cut-cornered rectangular diamond weighing 17.71 carats to the tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders with plain hoop, Accompanied by report no. 5111816766 dated 11 March 2010 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is D Colour, VVS2 clarity. Estimate: $1,000,000-1,500,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Dubai – Christie’s Dubai will for the first time present a wide range of period jewels from the Art Deco period (1920 to 1935) in the upcoming April auction, alongside pieces by nine contemporary jewellery designers and a range of exquisite diamonds and coloured gemstones. The watch section will include 43 rare and highly collectable watches including an exceptional diamond-set Patek Philippe wristwatch.

“It is with great pleasure that we introduce to our Dubai jewellery sales and the Middle Eastern market period jewellery for the first time. We will showcase unique pieces from the Art Deco period, an era of jewellery design that is highly sought after and collected throughout the world, alongside a strong section of talented Middle Eastern and international contemporary jewellery designers. This juxtaposition of two periods in jewellery design will illustrate the sheer diversity and momentum behind the jewellery craft in the last 100 years, allowing collectors insight into the designs and techniques used during the 20^th century. We are delighted to be offering such a fresh perspective this season,” said David Warren, International Director of Christie’s Jewellery department and Head of the Middle Eastern Jewellery department.

Period pieces: Art Deco

The 1920s and 1930s jewellery designs cast off the delicate lace-like settings and classic femininity of the Belle Epoque era (1895-1915). The new style was dynamical strong, clean cut and overtly angular, complementing the highly fitted business-like haute couture of the early 20^th century.

Art Deco highlights in the Dubai sale include a bracelet and a clip brooch by Cartier, circa 1925 of which the bracelet is designed as a series of pierced Moorish motifs of geometric design to form a choker (estimate: $30,000-40,000 / AED110,000-150,000). A charming emerald and diamond flower vase clip-brooch, by Cartier, circa 1935 (estimate: $10,000-15,000 / AED37,000-55,000) and a selection of stylish bracelets, including a rare scroll design ruby and diamond example estimated at $50,000-70,000 /AED190,000-250,000 as well as a diamond rivière, composed of forty-seven brilliant-cut diamonds, circa 1920 (estimate: $60,000-80,000 / AED220,000-290,000) are included in the sale.

A set of Art Deco jewelry by Cartier. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

The bracelet designed as a series of pierced Moorish motifs, circa 1925, 17.0cm long, with French assay mark for platinum, in a Cartier blue suede pouch, together with a double plaque pierced brooch of geometrical design to form a choker, circa 1925, 5.0cm wide, brooch fittings deficient, with French assay mark for platinum. Estimate $30,000 - $40,000.
Bracelet signed Cartier Paris, nos. 6947A and HSA264
Double plaques signed Cartier Paris, nos. 6847A and HSA265

An Art Deco emerald and diamond flower vase clip-brooch, by Cartier. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Designed as an angular vase composed by a rectangular and marquise-shaped emerald with baguette and rose-cut diamond borders, to the old-cut diamond floral arrangement, circa 1925, 4.0cm long. Signed Cartier London. Estimate: $10,000-15,000.

A fine Art Deco ruby and diamond bracelet. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Of scroll design, the two marquise-cut diamond collets set within two brilliant and baguette-cut diamond panels of curved design intertwined with a double-row of oval-shaped rubies to pavé-set diamond clasp, circa 1925, 18.0cm long. Estimate $50,000 - $70,000.

An Art Deco diamond rivière, circa 1920. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

The necklace composed of forty-seven brilliant-cut diamonds to the floral-shaped plain motif, circa 1920, 40cm long. Estimate $60,000 - $80,000.

Signed jewellery

Innovative designs from the 1960s and 70s, include several items from the Italian master craftsman Buccellati, featuring two rare gem-set rings delicately engraved with pierced mounts, one set with a marquise-cut yellow diamond of approximately 6 carats (estimate: $30,000-50,000 / AED110,000-180,000); the other, set with a cushion-shaped sapphire of approximately 18 carats (estimate: $18,000-25,000 / AED66,000-91,0000).  A natural pearl and yellow gold necklace, circa 1970, by Van Cleef & Arpels is an iconic example of the striking 1970s style (estimate: $15,000-25,000 / AED55,000-91,000).

A rare coloured diamond and diamond ring, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

The marquise-cut yellow diamond within a fine oval-shaped openwork mount of two-tone stylised snowflake design to the brilliant-cut diamond detail with openwork gallery, shoulders and textured hoop, ring size from 5 to 8 expandable, engraved "18K". Engraved Buccellati Italy 18K. Estimate $30,000 - $50,000.

Notes: In 1919, Mario Buccellati opened his first shop in Via Santa Margherita in Milan. In the following years, the fame of Buccellati jewels began to attract the attention of royalty all over the world. In 1925, he opened a shop in Rome, in Via dei Condotti followed in 1929 by one in Florence, in Via Tornabuoni. In 1951, Buccellati crossed the Atlantic and opened its first shop in New York. Gianmaria Buccellati one of the three sons of Mario continued his father's activity by preserving the Buccellati excellence and unique style. Production is carried out today by around 150 Italian craftsmen and with shops all over the world including London, Moscow, Paris and Hong Kong. Each jewel is recognisable by its distinctive delicate lacy style, inspired by Renaissance craftsmanship and with influences from the 18th century French Rococo period. The unique 'Buccellati style' is and will always be synonymous with excellence, perfect harmony and splendour..

A fine sapphire and diamond ring, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Of two-tone design, the oval-shaped sapphire within a delicately engraved coronial surround to the openwork tapered mount and open hoop of foliate motif, accented with brilliant-cut diamond collets, ring size 5¾. Signed Buccellati. Estimate $18,000 - $25,000.

A natural pearl and yellow gold necklace, circa 1970, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Designed as a double strand fluted bead necklace, spaced by a series of graduated baroque natural pearls, measuring from 9.7mm to 3.7mm, suspending a similarly designed triple strand hoop pendant, circa 1970, 37.0cm long. Signed VC&A for Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 41976. Estimate $15,000-25,000.

Diamonds are forever

The strong diamond section is led by an important 17.71 carat cut-cornered rectangular D colour, VVS2 clarity, diamond ring, signed by J. Roca (estimate: $1,000,000-1,500,000 / AED3,700,000-5,550,000); and a rectangular-cut, natural Fancy Intense Yellow colour, VVS1 clarity, diamond ring weighing 26.61 carats (estimate: $450,000-500,000 / AED1,700,000-1,800,000). Furthermore a square-shaped natural Fancy light Yellow diamond of 34.03 carats (estimate: $300,000-500,000 / AED1,100,000-1,800,000),  a heart-shaped diamond necklace composed of fifty-six graduated diamonds weighing a total of 60.79 carats ( estimate: $200,000-300,000 / AED730,000-1,100,000), and a rare 5.30 carat marquise-shaped diamond, D colour, Internally Flawless clarity (estimate: $250,000-350,000 / AED910,000-1,300,000) are just few examples from this important section of the sale.

An important coloured diamond ring. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010. 

composed of a rectangular-cut Fancy Intense Yellow diamond weighing 26.61 carats. Estimate $450,000 - $500,000.

Accompanied by report no. 5111589160 dated 14 January 2010 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is natural Fancy Intense Yellow colour, VVS1 clarity.

An important coloured diamond ring. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

The square-shaped Fancy Light Yellow diamond weighing 34.03 carats to the micro pavé-set diamond gallery and bifurcated shoulders to the plain hoop, ring size 6¼. Estimate $300,000 - $500,000.

Accompanied by report no. 2115019072 dated 6 August 2009 from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) stating that the diamond is natural Fancy Light Yellow colour, VS2 clarity.

An impressive diamond necklace.

The necklace composed of fifty-six graduated heart-shaped diamonds weighing a total of 60.79 carats, 40.0cm long, clasp engraved "PT950". Estimate $200,000 - $300,000
Accompanied by ten reports dated from 16 May 2006 to 25 August 2008 from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) with the following details:

16415045 18 December 2007 J SI2 2.76 Heart
17459422 22 July 2008 J I1 3.27 Heart
17199636 13 May 2008 J VS2 2.01 Heart
17479411 25 August 2008 J VS2 1.00 Heart
17479408 25 August 2008 J VS2 1.02 Heart
16800665 29 January 2008 K VS1 3.29 Heart
17237990 13 June 2008 L VS2 1.14 Heart
17479523 22 August 2008 L SI1 1.35 Heart
16866696 3 March 2008 L VS1 3.15 Heart
15149873 16 May 2006 L SI1 2.42 Heart

An important diamond ring. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

The marquise-cut diamond weighing 5.30 carats to the plain hoop, ring size 6¼. Estimate $250,000 - $350,000

Accompanied by report no. 17492414 dated 18 December 2008 from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) stating that the diamond is D colour, Internally Flawless clarity.

Important watches

In the past sales seasons the watch section of the sale has achieved a staggering sell-through-rate average of 95%. This strong performance has increased consignments from private collectors each season and established Dubai as a key sale location for watches. Most of the 43 watches on offer on 28 April are from private collectors and include watches, made by Patek Philippe, Constantin Vacheron and Audemars Piguet; as well those from a small private collection, of which the second half will be sold by Christie’s in Hong Kong in May. Individual estimates range from $2,000 to $150,000. The top estimate is carried by a Patek Philippe, ref. 5971P (estimate: $150,000-230,000 / AED550,000-840,000). This timepiece combines the intricacies of mechanical composition with the stunning luxury of diamonds and platinum. It also features the most quintessential of complications – the perpetual calendar, chronograph and moon phase with day and night indication. To date this is only the second reference 5971P to be offered at auction; the first one was sold at Christie’s Hong Kong in 2008.

Patek Philippe, ref. 5971p. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

platinum manually-wound perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phase display and diamond-set hour markers, bezel set with 36 baguette-cut diamonds. movement 3'048'934, case 4'441'212, manufactured in 2007.

Calibre CH 27-70 Q, Geneva Seal hallmarked, 24 jewels, black matte dial, diamond-set hour markers, subdials for small seconds with 24 hours display, 30 minutes counter with leap years and date with moonphases, two-part case, screw down transparent case back, platinum and diamond-set PPCo buckle, case, dial and movement signed. Diameter: 39 mm. Estimate $150,000 - $230,000

Notes: With Patek Philippe presentation box, Certificate of Origin and product literature.

This timepiece combines the intricacies of mechanical complication with the stunning luxury of diamonds and platinum. Perfectly set with 36 flawless rare white Top Wesselton baguette diamonds of an impressive 4 carats in total, Reference 5971 is the ultimate in horological aesthetics. This outstanding timepiece features the most quintessential of complications - the perpetual calendar, chronograph and moon phase with day night indication. The CH 27-70Q calibre, manufactured by Nouvelle Lémania, is considered by many connoisseurs to be the epitome of classic column wheel chronograph engineering. Testimony to the prestige of this timepiece is that Patek Philippe considers the Reference 5971 as their only Haute Joaillerie watch in the Grand Complications category.

The present watch is the second example of the reference 5971P to appear at auction to-date. The first example was sold at Christie's Hong Kong on 3 December 2008 for HK$ 2,160,000 (US$278,000).

Established in 1845, Glashütte is renowned for its functionality and its design, based on its strict attention to detail in both movement and dials. Christie’s offers a platinum and diamond-set automatic flying tourbillon wristwatch, limited edition, number 25/25 for $50,000-70,000 / AED190,000-250,000.

Glashütte Original, Panomatic Tourbillon. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Platinum and diamond-set automatic flying tourbillon wristwatch with date display,limited edition of 25. No. 25/25, manufactured in 2007.

Calibre 93, 46 jewels, visible tourbillon regulator, 21k gold rotor, guilloched white gold dial with brushed chapter ring, gold baton hour markers, panorama date display, three-part case, diamond-set bezel, screwed transparent case back, diamond-set crown, platinum and diamond-set GG buckle, case, dial and movement signed. Diameter: 39.5 mm. Estimate $50,000 - $70,000

Notes: Established in 1845, Glashütte is renowned for its functionality and it is one of the most reputable of the Saxony watchmakers. Synonymous with Glashütte design is their attention to detail on the movement and dials. This exquisite timepiece is no such exception, with its sunray-style guilloché pattern radiating across the dial and on the reverse, the signature Glashütte perlage surface decorates the three-quarter plates. This stunning PanoMatic Tourbillon features sixty-four brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel with a Flying Tourbillon within. This great complication houses a balance, pallets and an escapement wheel within a cantilevered carriage that revolves 360 degrees every minute, hence compensating for the effect of gravity.

Breguet, one of the most historic watch brands in the world is known by many as the watchmaker to Kings. It was Breguet who first invented and patented the tourbillion in 1801, as a way of ensuring that the movement rate of pocket watches would not be affected by gravity. The watch on offer is a platinum and pink gold manually-wound tourbillon wristwatch, made circa 1995 (estimate: $30,000-40,0000 / AED110,000-150,000).

Breguet, Tourbillon Messidor. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Platinum and pink gold manually-wound tourbillon wristwatch. No. 68p, circa 1995.

Calibre 558, 21 jewels, visible tourbillon regulator, silvered guilloched dial, off-centred time display, gauge calibrated for 20 seconds, three-part case in platinum and 18k pink gold, milled band, engraved foliate backplate, screwed down transparent case back, platinum Breguet buckle, case, dial and movement signed. Diameter: 36 mm. Estimate $30,000 - $40,000

Notes: With Breguet presentation box, certificate and product literature.

One of the most historic brands in the world, Breguet is known by many as the Watchmaker to Kings. It was Breguet who first invented and patented the tourbillon in 1801, as a way of ensuring that the movement rate of pocket watches would not be affected by gravity. The Messidor tourbillon is considered to be one of the finest of the Breguet time pieces, housing a transparent regulator that appears to float between two sheets of sapphire crystal.

Jewels and Watches, The Dubai Sale, 28 April