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14 mai 2010

Grand succès pour la vente de Haute Joaillerie chez Sotheby’s

Genève, 11 mai 2010, la vente organisée chez Sotheby’s à Genève a remporté un grand succès totalisant 59.995.700 CHF (42.411.883 €) contre une estimation de 35.9 à 51.1M CHF (25.2/35.9M€) soit 87.9% des lots vendus, 96.6% en valeur, et 74% des lots qui ont dépassé leur estimation haute. Les enchérisseurs sont venus très nombreux, du monde entier, se disputer les pièces exceptionnelles que proposait Sotheby’s : pierres de couleur spectaculaires, diamants exceptionnels, pièces désirables aux signatures prestigieuses et de provenance aristocratique ou historique. Les résultats obtenus aujourd’hui confortent le succès remporté dans ce domaine au printemps à Londres, New York et Hong Kong, réalisant aujourd’hui un total mondial de 147.7M$ (114.4M €).

SOTHEBY’S GENEVA, TUESDAY, 11th MAY, 2010 – Tonight in Geneva, Sotheby’s Spring Sales of Magnificent and Noble Jewels concluded, bringing a sensational total of CHF59,995,700 / $53,976,331 / €42,411,883, a figure well above pre-sale expectations (est: CHF35.9-51.1 million / $32.4-46 million). All three sales sessions today saw lively and competitive bidding across the board for top-quality jewels at all price levels - be it important coloured stones, white diamonds, glamorous signed pieces or jewels with historic and noble provenance. Collectors and jewellery lovers from all corners of the world were out in force, bringing overall sell through rates of 88% by lot and 97% by value. In addition more than 74% of the lots sold, achieved prices in excess of their high estimate. Today’s exceptional results follow hot on the heels of the great success of the company’s Jewellery sales in Hong Kong and New York last month and bring the total of Sotheby’s worldwide sales of jewels this Spring to $147.7 million.

L’enchère la plus élevée de la journée, 8.930.500 CHF (6.313.108 €), a récompensé la bague sertie d’un diamant taille coussin fancy intense blue, pesant 7.64 carats, réalisant un record mondial par carat pour un diamant fancy intense blue de 1.051.636 $. Provenant d’une collection privée, il s’agit de l’un des diamants de ce type les plus importants à apparaitre sur le marché ces dernières années.

Important Stones: In a sale series which saw a vast number of triumphs, the standout moment of the day came with the sale of the rare cushion-shaped fancy intense blue diamond weighing 7.64-carats and mounted as a ring. One of the most important diamonds of this colour grading and shape to appear on the market for many years, the stunning ring saw competition from at least three potential buyers before selling to an anonymous client for CHF8,930,500 / $8,034,503. This sets a new record price of $1,051,636 per for carat for a fancy intense blue diamond sold at auction.

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Very rare Fancy Intense Blue diamond ring. photo Sotheby's

Claw-set with a fancy intense blue cushion-shaped diamond weighing 7.64 carats, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, size 51. Est. 4,320,000—6,300,000 CHF. Lot Sold 8,930,500 CHF to an Anonymous.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115396538 stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Blue, Natural Colour, VVS2 Clarity. Together with an additional GIA worksheet stating that the diamond may be Potentially Flawless after repolishing.

NOTE: This unmodified cushion is one of the most important fancy intense blues to appear on the market for years and according to our records, this is the largest cushion shaped stone of this colour grading ever to appear at auction.

Coloured diamonds are particularly rare in the classic unmodified cuts associated with white diamonds. It is this, combined with its highly saturated body colour and the fact that it has the potential to receive an Internally Flawless grading after minor repolishing, that makes this 7.64 carat gem a truly exceptional diamond. One that any connoisseur of the supremely rare would covet for their collection.

Sotheby's established the current world record price per carat at auction (USD $796,178) for a fancy intense blue diamond in November 2009 in Geneva with the sale of a 3.17 carat round brilliant-cut stone.

Autre diamant bleu a suscité de belles batailles d’enchères est celui, taille poire de 5.02 carats, monté en bague toi et moi, signée par Alexandre Reza. Disputé par quatre enchérisseurs jusqu’à 8.930.500 CHF (6.313.108 €), il réalise un nouveau record pour un bijou signé par ce célèbre joaillier français.

A second blue diamond - a rare toi et moi ring by the much celebrated French jeweller, Alexandre Reza – was also the subject of a spirited bidding battle. Set with a spectacular 5.02-carat fancy vivid blue diamond and a exceptional white diamond of the same shape and weighing 5.42-carats, the immensely chic ring saw determined bidding from multiple bidders and brought a final price of CHF7,026,500 / $6,321,531 – against the pre-sale estimate of CHF4.25-7.4 million / $4-7 million and establishing an auction record price for a jewel by the French jewellery maker.

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Highly Important and Exceptionally Rare Diamond ring, Alexandre Reza. photo Sotheby's

Of cross over design, set with a fancy vivid blue pear-shaped diamond weighing 5.02 carats and a pear-shaped diamond weighing 5.42 carats, to a platinum mount, size 52, signed A. Reza, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 4,250,000—7,400,000 CHF. Lot Sold 7,026,500 CHF to an U.S. Trade

Accompanied by two GIA reports: no. 5101427814 stating that 5.02 carat diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity and no. 10084348, dated 19 February 1997, stating that the diamond weighing 5.42 carats is D Colour, Internally Flawless.

NOTE: Alexandre Reza, the celebrated Paris-based jeweller, was born in Moscow in 1922. During his career, that began after the Second Wand which spans four decades, he assembled one of the largest, most diverse and precious collections of gems in the world.

He travelled widely to select each stone individually, and then transformed them with his vision, and the skill of his virtuoso craftsmen, into miniature works of art that are the exquisite suites of necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings for which Alexandre Reza is justly renowned. The creative process was unhurried and uncompromising.

He first supplied gems to, and manufactured for some of the greatest jewellers of the 60s and 70s such as Cartier, Chaumet, Gerard, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari and Boucheron. He then decided to found his own brand and established his own retail operations 30 years ago on the Place Vendôme in Paris, in Geneva and in the South of France, offering some of the greatest Haute Joaillerie of the day.

The jeweller's art begins with an understanding that jewels are the most personal of decoration and are meant to be worn to reflect and enhance a woman's beauty. Reza was inspired in his designs both by historical jewels of royal provenance that he recreated to appeal to a contemporary audience, as well as by a modern classicism of his own creation. He framed sumptuous colours in three dimensional diamond-set mountings that defy the hardness of metal and are like fabric, soft and supple, nestling on the ear and settling around the neck or wrist in the most flattering way. Movement, lightness, composition and harmony are the key words of his designs.

Each of Alexandre Reza's creations is imbued with his special understanding of and appreciation for both the physical beauty and the metaphysical properties of the precious gems with which it is set. His is a unique interpretation – respectful of the past, celebratory of the present and enduring in the future.

Today his family continues his legacy on the Place Vendôme, focusing on the most precious gems and high quality manufacture for a discerning elite clientele.

The ring in this catalogue, with its refined, immensely chic design and use of truly exceptional gemstones, is a perfect illustration of the excellence of Alexandre Reza creations.

Une exceptionnelle bague sertie d’un diamant blanc taille émeraude de 52.82 carats, type IIa, de couleur D et de pureté flawless a dépassé à 8.818.500 CHF (6.233.933 €) l’estimation de 7.3MCHF. Le nouvel acquéreur a le privilège de baptiser cette pierre extraordinaire.

The magnificent emerald-cut white diamond weighing 52.82-carats was the second highest selling lot of the day. This sold to an US dealer for CHF8,818,500 / $7,933,740 proving the strength of the market for exceptional white diamonds.

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Magnificent diamond ring. photo Sotheby's

Claw-set with an emerald-cut diamond weighing 52.82 carats, to a plain platinum mount, size 52. Estimate Upon Request. Lot Sold 8,818,500 CHF to an International Private.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 17459301 stating that the diamond is D Colour, Flawless, with excellent Polish and Symmetry. Further accompanied by a GIA type classification report, stating that the stone is a Type IIa diamond.

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: The GIA Diamond Type Classification report stating: 'Scientists classify diamonds into two main "types" - type I and type II - based on the presence or absence of nitrogen which can replace carbon atoms in a diamond's atomic structure. These two diamond types can be distinguished on the basis of differences in their chemical and physical properties. Type II diamonds contain little if any nitrogen and they are subdivided into two groups (IIa and IIb) both of which are quite rare (less than 2 % of all gem diamonds).

According to the records if GIA Laboratory, the 52.82 carat emerald cut diamond described in the GIA Colored Diamond Grading Report # 174593001 has been determined to be a type IIa diamond. Type IIa diamonds are the most chemically pure type of diamond and often have exceptional optical transparency. Type IIa diamonds were first identified as originating from India (particularly from the Golconda region) but have since been discovered in all major diamond producing regions of the world.

NOTE: This truly outstanding diamond can be regarded as the ideal shape for an emerald cut. It has been awarded the highest possible grading for both polish and symmetry. In addition, it has received the final accolade, type IIa, which places the stone within the rare and much sought after group of the finest and purest white diamond crystals discovered.

As has become the tradition with diamonds of this importance and rarity at auction, the buyer of this impressive stone will have the additional privilege of choosing the name by which it will henceforth be known in history.

Selon David Bennett, Président Europe & Moyen-Orient du Département Haute Joaillerie chez Sotheby’s déclare: “Les résultats obtenus aujourd’hui démontrent que le marché international de la haute joaillerie reste très dynamique et que les amateurs du monde entier répondent toujours présent quand des bijoux de qualité exceptionnelle apparaissent sur le marché. Les expositions organisées à Hong Kong, New York et Genève ont remporté l’un des plus grands succès de ces dernières années dans ce domaine. Nous sommes particulièrement heureux que les amateurs n’ont pas manqué de saisir la qualité exceptionnelle des diamants bleus et du spectaculaire diamant de 52.82 carats. Enfin, la vente consacrée aux bijoux nobles suscite toujours autant d’intérêt auprès des amateurs, dépassant cette fois encore, pour la quatrième fois, son estimation haute.”

Autre pierre de couleur très convoitée aujourd’hui, une importante bague sertie d’un rubis Birman de 12.46 carats, vendue 2.154.500 CHF (1.523.049 €) contre une estimation de 640,000-840,000 CHF.

Commenting on the successful Spring sales David Bennett, Chairman, Europe & the Middle East, Sotheby’s International Jewellery department, said:Today’s outstanding results once again demonstrate the vibrancy and depth of the international jewellery market and the enormous appetite throughout the world for jewels and gemstones of the very best quality. Our pre-sale viewing in Geneva was among the busiest that we’ve staged in recent years and, the general interest and enthusiasm that we saw in all the worldwide locations where we exhibited highlights from the sale was extraordinary. The prices achieved tonight for the two blue diamonds and also the spectacular 52.82-carat white diamond were much deserved, as these were all gems of the highest quality and rarity and it was also heartening to see our fourth dedicated sale of Noble Jewels perform so well once again, exceeding the pre-sale estimate by a large margin. We are absolutely delighted with the results of today’s sales, which have performed superbly well in every category.”

Further top prices for important stones were achieved for an important Burmese ruby and diamond ring, which brought CHF2,154,500 / $1,938,339. The striking ring, set with a 12.46-carat ruby, was estimated at CHF640,000-840,000 / $600,000-800,000. An impressive oval brilliant-cut diamond - also set as a ring - and estimated at CHF1.4-2.1 million / $1.3-2 million sold for a final price of CHF2,098,500 / $1,887,957.

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Very Important Ruby and diamond ring. photo Sotheby's

Centring on a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 12.46 carats, between shoulders set with triangular diamonds, mounted in platinum, size 53½.. Estimate 650,000—850,000 CHF. Lot Sold 2,154,500 CHF to an American Trade.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 1003105 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

Pour la deuxième fois en deux ans, Sotheby’s dispersaient les bijoux provenant de la collection Madame Lily Marinho, Première Dame du Brésil, avec en tête cette fois l’impressionnante parure d’émeraudes et de diamants qui comprend un collier, une bague ainsi qu’une paire de boucles d’oreilles doublant à 1.202.500 CHF (850.066 €) l’estimation de haute de 525,000 CHF.

Jewels with Celebrity Provenance: The elegant group of four jewels from the collection of Brazil’s ‘first lady’, Lily Marinho, saw the same success as the much larger collection of jewels that she offered for sale at Sotheby’s Geneva in May 2008 and which brought more than $11 million. The four pieces offered in today’s sale – an impressive emerald and diamond parure; a tanzanite and diamond demi-parure; a pair of brooches in the design of a fish; and a diamond bangle – were all greatly admired and brought a total of CHF1,426,000 / $1,282,929, more than double their combined pre-sale estimate of CHF369,000-589,000 / $341,500-560,300. The emerald and diamond parure was the star of the group, bringing CHF1,202,500 / $1,081,853.

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Impressive Emerald and diamond necklace and a pair of ear clips and a ring from the collection of Lily Marinho. photo Sotheby's

The necklace centrally set with seven step-cut emeralds framed with brilliant-cut, pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, the cluster spacers set with similar stones, mounted in white and yellow gold, length approximately 430mm; the pair of ear clips centring on a step-cut emerald within brilliant-cut, marquise-shaped and baguette diamond borders, mounted in white gold; the ring flanked with triangular stones, mounted in platinum, size 51. Est. 325,000—525,000 CHF. Lot Sold 1,202,500 CHF to a Private.

Autre ensemble très important, celui de Madame Antionetta Stella, cantatrice italienne, avec en particulier un bracelet diamant vendu 36.250 CHF (25.626 €) estimé à 30,000- 45,000 CHF et une bague sertie d’un diamant taille émeraude de 9.19 carats, emportée 230.500 CHF (162.944 €) contre une estimation de 105,000-145,000 CHF.

Likewise, the jewellery from the collection of the Italian opera star Antonietta Stella excited a great deal of interest from collectors and the top-selling lot of the items she presented for sale was a diamond ring with a step-cut stone weighing 9.19-carats. This sold for CHF230,500 / $207,374, well above the estimate of CHF105,000-145,000 / $100,000-138,000.

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Diamond bracelet, 1960s form the collection of Antionetta Stella. photo Sotheby's

The articulated band set with a line of step-cut diamonds alternating with marquise-shaped diamonds between borders of brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds, mounted in platinum, numbered, length approximately 175mm. Est. 30,000—45,000 CHF. Lot Sold 36,250 CHF

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Diamond ring from the collection of Antionetta Stella. photo Sotheby's

Claw-set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond weighing 9.19 carats, between tapered baguette diamond shoulders, mounted in platinum, size 57½. Est. 105,000—145,000 CHF. Lot Sold. 230,500 CHF

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115790825 stating that the diamond is I Colour, VS1 Clarity, together with an additional GIA worksheet stating that the diamond may be Potentially Flawless after repolishing.

Les résultats ont été également très soutenus pour les bijoux de provenance nobiliaire ou aristocratique dépassant à 9.112.925 CHF (6.442.067 €) l’estimation de 4.9/7.2M CHF (3.4/5M€) soit 93.9% des lots vendus et 95.7% en valeur. La pièce la plus convoitée a été la rivière de diamants, signée Chiappe, provenant d’une famille aristocratique italienne. Vendue 2.322.500 CHF (1.641.811€), elle est formée de 28 diamants pesant plus de 160 carats.

Noble Jewels: Strong results were once again seen in the dedicated sale of Noble Jewels, the fourth consecutive sale of its kind in Geneva and this further builds on the success of the last three years. The Noble Jewels sale surpassed its pre-sale high estimate bringing CHF9,112,925 / $8,198,625, against an estimate of CHF4.9-7.2 million / $4.4-6.5 million and achieved sell through rates of 93.9% by lot and 95.7% by value. The centrepiece of this year’s sale was a beautiful diamond necklace by Chiappe, designed as a graduated rivière of 28 circular-cut diamonds, with a total weight in excess of 160-carats and from the collection of an Italian noble family. This was hotly contested by a number of potential buyers before selling for a price of CHF2,322,500 / $2,089,484, against an estimate of CHF1.5-2.2 million / $1.4.2.1 million. The allure of a noble provenance was once again demonstrated tonight.

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Highly Important Diamond necklace, F. Chiappe, 1909 from an Italian noble family. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a graduated rivière of twenty-eight circular-cut diamonds weighing 161.29 carats in total, the six largest diamonds to the front weighing respectively 7.98, 8.00, 9.81, 11.38, 15.11 and 16.62 carats, length approximately 410mm, unsigned, fitting deficient, later altered to current design, case. Est. 1,500,000—2,250,000 CHF. Lot Sold 2,322,500 CHF to a Private.

Accompanied by six GIA reports sating that the six largest diamonds weighing from 7.98 to 16.62 carats, are L Colour and range from VS2 to SI2 Clarity.

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: F. Chiappe Gioielliere Genova,1909, Chiappe, Fiori Archives.

Cf: Dictionnaire du Bijou, Regard, 1998, page 130.

Cf: Dizionario del Gioiello Italiano, Umberto Allemandi & Co, 2005, page 74.

NOTE: This diamond riviere was created in 1909 by Filippo Chiappe of Genoa, and adapted at a later date. It was one of a large group of jewels created especially for the marriage of two important Italian aristocratic families. This order brought acclaim to Chiappe; his jewels immediately became sought after by the aristocracy and leaders of society, and he was appointed as court jeweller by the Italian Royal Family in 1913. Crown Prince Umberto of Savoy commissioned Chiappe to create a diamond necklace based on the design of the Savoy knot, to celebrate his marriage to Princess Marie Jose of Belgium. The company is currently run by the Fiori family, nephews of Filippo Chiappe, and is located on the via XX Septembre in Genoa.

Autres lots très convoités, ceux de la collection du Prince Carlo della Torre e Tasso ayant ont appartenus aux Princesses Marie Bonaparte, Eugénie de Grèce et du Danemark. Citons en particulier le collier en saphirs et diamants créé par Mellerio dit Meller en 1870, vendu 482.500 CHF (341.087 €) ou le devant de corsage en perles fines et diamants emporté à 164.500 CHF (116.288€) (estimation : 43,000-63,000 CHF).

Among the other notable Noble highlights were the CHF482,500 / $434,091 paid for the sapphire and diamond parure from the collection of H.S.H. Prince Carlo della Torre e Tasso (est; CHF160,000-215,000 / 150,000-200,000) and the sum of CHF122,500 / $110,210 achieved for a group of seven diamond jewels that came to the market having formerly been in the collection of Mrs Fitzherbert, the secret wife of Prince Regent (later King George IV).

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Impressive sapphire and diamond demi-parure, Mellerio dits Meller, circa 1870. The property of H.S.H. Prince Carlo Della Torre E Tasso. Formerly from the Collections of Princess Marie Bonaparte and Princess Eugenie of Greece and Denmark. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a necklace designed as a chain of eleven clusters each set with an oval sapphire within a cushion-shaped diamond border supporting cushion-shaped diamond swags and decorated to the front with three detachable drops, each set with an oval sapphire within a border of cushion-shaped diamonds surmounted by a diamond ribbon bow motif and supporting three sapphire and diamond drops; and a pair of matching earrings, later screw fittings on earrings, mounted in gold and silver, French assay marks and maker's marks, necklace length approximately 390mm, later fitted case by Mellerio dits Meller. Est. 160,000—215,000 CHF. Lot Sold 482,500 CHF

NOTE: According to Mellerio's archives, this parure was purchased by H.H Eugène, Prince de Ligne, Prince d'Amblise et d'Epinoy. The white leather fitted case stamped with a gold princely crown was made on the occasion of the marriage of H. H Princess Marie Suzanne de Ligne and H.S.H Prince Alexander von Thurn und Taxis, Duke of Castelduino.

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Pearl and diamond devant de corsage, circa 1850. The Property of H.S.H. Prince Carlo Della Torre E Tasso . Formerly from the Collections of H.M. Queen Olga of Greece, born Grand Duchess Olga of Russia, Princess Marie Bonaparte and Princess Eugenie of Greece and Denmark and thence by direct descent. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a cartouche of entwined ribbons and foliate motifs set throughout with cushion-shaped diamonds and decorated with three pearls, supporting an elaborate swag of pearl and diamond drops and diamond chains, mounted in silver and gold, later pin. Est. 43,000—63,000 CHF. Lot Sold 164,500 CHF

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 56209 stating that the pearls are saltwater natural pearls.

Les autres meilleurs résultats de la vente :

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Very Impressive oval diamond ring. photo Sotheby's

The oval brilliant-cut diamond weighing 33.77 carats, the basket and shoulders set with brilliant-cut stones, mounted in platinum, size 53½. Est. 1,400,000—2,100,000 CH. Lot Sold 2,098,500 CHF to an International Trade.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115491003 stating that the diamond is G Colour, VS1 Clarity, with excellent Polish and Symmetry.

NOTE: This 33.77 carat diamond was cut from a 115.70 carat rough (left) mined from the Orange River area in South Africa, where diamonds were first discovered in 1876. This discovery sparked the diamond rush in South Africa which led to the development of the town of Kimberley.

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Very Fine Diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. photo Sotheby's

Claw-set with an oval diamond weighing 10.73 carats, between shoulders set with tapered baguettes, mounted in platinum, size 56, signed VCA NY and numbered. Est. 650,000—950,000 CHF. Lot Sold 1,538,500 CHF to an Asian Private.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115396577 stating that the diamond is D Colour, Internally Flawless.

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Important Diamond necklace, Chaumet, circa 1915. Property of a European noble family. photo Sotheby's

The front millegrain-set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, suspending a fringe of pear-shaped stones terminating on a circular-cut diamond weighing 27.62 carats, length approximately 435mm, mounted in gold and platinum, unsigned, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 300,000—500,000 CHF. Lot Sold 842,500 CHF to an American Trade.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 1112612593 stating that the diamond is J colour, SI1 clarity.

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Important Sapphire and diamond necklace, Bulgari. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a graduated series of clusters each set with an oval sapphire and brilliant-cut diamonds, alternating with marquise- and pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamond spacers, mounted in platinum, length approximately 400mm, signed Bulgari, case. Est. 380,000—580,000 CHF. Lot Sold 638,500 CHF to an European Trade.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 56071 stating that the eighteen sapphires, estimated to weigh approximately 85.00 carats in total, are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

Sotheby's. Magnficent Jewels and Noble Jewels. 11 May 10. Geneva www.sothebys.com 

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