Fancy Intense Yellow diamond ring, Cartier. photo Sotheby's

Claw-set with a fancy intense yellow round-cornered square modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 15.85 carats, flanked by triangular diamonds, mounted in yellow gold, size 54, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 195,000—295,000 CHF Lot Sold 458,500 CHF

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2115396572 stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity.

Diamond ring, Cartier. photo Sotheby's

Centring on a step-cut diamond weighing 5.06 carats, to a band partially pavé-set with brilliant-cut stones, mounted in platinum, size 53, signed Cartier and numbered, case. Est. 150,000—195,000 CHF Lot Sold 230,500 CHF

Accompanied by a 2010 duplicate of GIA report no. 210103026333, dated 2001, stating that the diamond is E Colour, VVS2 Clarity.

Onyx, emerald and diamond bangle, 'Panthère', Cartier. photo Sotheby's

Pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds, one terminal designed with a panther's head accented with marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose, mounted in white gold, circumference approximately 155mm, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, case. Est. 52,000—75,000 CHF Lot Sold 152,500 CHF

Fine onyx, enamel, rock crystal and diamond belt brooch, Cartier, 1924. photo Sotheby's

The polished rock crystal rectangle flanked with ogee arch motifs set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, onyx and black enamel, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, case. Est. 60,000—100,000 CHF Lot Sold 104,500 CHF

Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity by Cartier numbered GE2010-37.

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Mélissa Gabardi, Les Bijoux de l'Art Deco aux Anneés 40, Paris, 1986, page 80-89, and Franco Cologni, Eric Nussbaum, Cartier, le Joaillier du Platine, Milan, 1995, page 124-125 for other examples of hat pins/belt brooches by Cartier.

Cf: Judy Rudoe, Cartier 1900-1939, London 1997, page 56, for a page of designs for similar jewels from the London Design Scrapbook, circa 1922-1923.

NOTE: Designed to be worn either as a belt brooch or as a hat pin, this type of brooch was used to decorate the fashionable cloche hat of the 1920s, they were produced in a wide range of shape and colour, with rectangles or rings of rock crystal, onyx and coral.

Diamond necklace, Cartier, circa 1972. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a line of slightly graduated brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a fringe of pear-, marquise- and kite-shaped stones, mounted in platinum, length approximately 410mm, signed Cartier and indistinctly numbered, case. Est. 35,000—55,000 CHF Lot Sold 92,500 CHF

Fine Sapphire and diamond bracelet, Cartier, circa 1925. photo Sotheby's

The articulated band of geometric inspiration set with circular-cut diamonds and calibré-cut sapphires, length approximately 175mm, signed Cartier and numbered, case. Est. 65,000—95,000 CHF Lot Sold 88,900 CHF

Diamond ring, Cartier. photo Sotheby's

Centring on a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.40 carats, to a plain platinum band, size 52, signed Cartier and numbered, case. Est. 55,000—75,000 CHF Lot Sold 86,500 CHF

Fancy Yellow diamond and diamond ring, Cartier. photo Sotheby's

The fancy yellow cushion-shaped modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 5.04 carats, flanked by trapeze stones, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, size 51½, signed Cartier. Est. 43,000—63,000 CHF Lot Sold 56,250 CHF

Accompanied by GIA report no. 17478601 stating that the diamond is Fancy Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity.

Sapphire and diamond 'Panthère' brooch, Cartier, circa 1990. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a striding panther pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds accented with cabochon sapphires, pear-shaped emerald eyes and a cabochon onyx nose, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay marks. Est. 25,000—35,000 CHF Lot Sold 56,250 CHF

Pair of diamond clips/bracelet, Cartier, circa 1940. photo Sotheby's

Each of stylised swag design, set with single- and circular-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, to be worn together on a bangle fitting, mounted in yellow gold, all signed Cartier Paris and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, bangle not numbered, case. Est. 22,000—32,000 CHF Lot Sold 55,000 CHF

Onyx, emerald and diamond ring, 'Panthère', Cartier. photo Sotheby's

The coiling band pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, the nose with onyx, mounted in white gold, size 56, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 27,000—37,000 CHF Lot Sold 50,000 CHF

Yellow gold and diamond demi-parure, Cartier, circa 1960. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a necklace composed of three rows of yellow gold wire annular links, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 415mm, together with a bracelet en suite, length approximately 185mm, both signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, cases. Est. 20,000—30,000 CHF Lot Sold 50,000 CHF

Turquoise, amethyst and diamond demi-parure, 'Les délices de Goa', Cartier. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a necklace designed to the front with two rows of turquoise and amethyst beads, some studded with brilliant-cut diamonds, length of the shortest row approximately 540mm, and a ring en suite, size 61, both mounted in pink gold, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, cases. Est. 14,600—22,000 CHF Lot Sold 47,500 CHF

Yellow gold and diamond demi-parure, Cartier. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a bracelet of foliate inspiration, set with brilliant-, circular- and single-cut diamonds, circumference approximately 160mm, case; together with a pair of clips en suite, all signed Cartier Paris and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 15,000—22,000 CHF Lot Sold 42,500 CHF

Diamond ring, Monture Cartier, 1949. photo Sotheby's

Of Kokoshnik, tiare russe inspiration, set with three rows of brilliant- and circular-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, size 45, signed Monture Cartier and numbered, French assay marks, case. Est. 10,000—15,000 CHF Lot Sold 30,000 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Thérésa Vatchnadzé, De Bakou à Paris, Paris 1987.

Cf: Hans Nadelhofer, Cartier Jewelers Extraordinary, 1984, page 70-72 for illustrations and further information on Kokoshnik tiaras produced by Cartier at the begining of the 20th century.

NOTE: Born in 1894 in Bakou, Russia to a wealthy family, Princess Thérésa Vatchnadzé enjoyed the privileged life of pre-revolutionary Russia. This came to an end with the revolution of 1917.
She studied briefly at the University of Moscow and then married David Adamoff, a brilliant jurist. Immediately after the birth of their son, Ivan, in 1918, Adamoff was apprehended by the Communists, never to be seen again. Frightened by the consequences of the revolution, she fled to Paris with Ivan and a dear friend, Prince Alexander Vatchnadzé, a member of the Tsars Army, whom she eventually married. Thérésa became a fashion designer, and her style, similar to that of Coco Chanel, was a great success. Notables such as King Faisal I of Iraq were among her clients. Her career ended with World War II, and she and Prince Vatchnadzé lived quietly in exile in Paris.

Yellow gold, seed pearl, tourmaline, emerald and ruby pendant, adapted by Cartier. photo Sotheby's

Of palmette and scroll filigree design, set with circular- and step-cut diamonds, variously-cut emeralds and pink tourmalines, suspending a fringe of similar stones connected by baroque seed pearls, the surmount set with step-cut emeralds and oval rubies, unsigned, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 6,000—8,000 CHF Lot Sold 30,000 CHF

With its Middle Eastern design, it is very possible that this pendant was a souvenir acquired during the well documented 1936 cruise taken by King Edward VIII and Mrs Simpson aboard the yacht Nahlin. The last port of call was Istanbul, where the king and his party met the Turkish leader Ataturk.

NOTE: Previously catalogued and sold as lot 114 in The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Sotheby's Geneva, 2nd and 3rd April 1987.

Yellow gold, ruby and diamond wristwatch, Cartier, circa 1940. photo Sotheby's

The front studded with single- and circular-cut diamonds and cabochon rubies, opening to reveal a rectangular cream dial with numeral indicators, bordered by stylised pilaster elements, to a sprung brick link strap, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, circumference approximately 155mm, dial signed Cartier, case numbered, strap numbered, French assay marks. Est. 15,000—25,000 CHF Lot Sold 26,250 CHF

Sapphire and enamel dress set, Cartier, 1930s. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a pair of cufflinks, four shirt buttons and three studs, each square-shaped link set with calibré-cut sapphires accented with blue enamel points, signed Cartier London and numbered, case. Est. 8,500—12,000 CHF Lot Sold 27,500 CHF

Pair of velvet and diamond ear clips, Cartier, circa 1920. photo Sotheby's

Each designed as a pansy, the borders set with rose diamonds, centring on a brilliant-cut stone, each to a deep purple velvet background, signed Cartier and numbered, maker's marks, case Cartier, London. Est. 6,500—9,500 CHF Lot Sold 21,250 CHF

Turquoise and diamond demi-parure, Cartier, 1950s. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a pair of ear clips and a brooch of stylised waterfall design, set with brilliant-cut diamonds and cabochon turquoises, signed Cartier Paris and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 12,000—18,000 CHF Lot Sold 21,250 CHF

Ruby and diamond brooch, Cartier, circa 1970. photo Sotheby's

Of stylised floral design, the petals set with brilliant- and circular-cut diamonds, the pistil set with pear-shaped cabochon rubies, the stem with baguette diamonds, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 4,000—18,000 CHF Lot Sold 17,500 CHF

Yellow gold and ruby bracelet, Cartier, late 1930s. photo Sotheby's

Composed of eleven square links embellished with calibré-cut rubies, mounted in yellow gold, length approximately 160mm, signed Cartier London. Est. 6,500—9,500 CHF Lot Sold 12,500 CHF

Ruby, sapphire and diamond clip, Cartier, 1940s. photo Sotheby's

Of floral and foliate design, set with cabochon rubies and sapphires to the single- and circular-cut diamond accents, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed Cartier London and numbered. Est. 6,000—9,000 CHF Lot Sold 9,375 CHF

Gold and citrine clip, Cartier, circa 1940. photo Sotheby's

Of geometric form, set with calibré-cut citrines, mounted in pink and yellow gold, signed Cartier. Est. 4,000—6,000 CHF Lot Sold 8,750 CHF

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