A fine pink sapphire and diamond flower brooch, circa 1900
A fine pink sapphire and diamond flower brooch, circa 1900. Photo Bonhams
Realistically modelled as a cyclamen, the centre of the delicate bloom set with calibré-cut sapphires, ranging in hue from deep crimson to pale pink, the tips of the unfurling petals set with old brilliant-cut diamonds in channel settings, the curving stem set with similarly cut diamonds, diamonds approximately 4.00 carats, two sapphires deficient, unsigned, later fitted case by Wartski. Estimate: £30,000 - 40,000, $ 49,000 - 65,000
Note: During the 19th century, new and interesting plant species were introduced and spread throughout Europe and this perpetuated naturalistic themes in the decorative arts and a fashionable and academic interest in the language of flowers. This in turn led to realistic interpretations of plants and flowers in precious jewellery and this brooch is an exquisite example of the genre. The craftsman who created it has created a sparkling, tactile and lifelike object. The delicate diamond bloom, balances on a slender diamond stem and the calibré-cut pink sapphires mirror the deep pink zone at the base of each petal of a cyclamen persicum. Although unsigned, this jewel is of comparable quality to the naturalistic floral jewels produced by Boucheron, Coulon, Massin and Vever at the end of the 19th century. See Vever, Henri, 'French Jewellery of the 19th Century', (translated by Purcell, Katherine), London, 2001, for examples and also, Duncan, Alistair, 'The Paris Salons 1895-1914', Volume I, page 216, for an illustration of a diamond-set orchid corsage ornament by Durand-Leriche in similar vein.
Bonhams. Fine Jewellery, 13 Apr 2011. New Bond Street www.bonhams.com