A_rare_gem_set_and_diamond_peacock_brooch__by_Gustave_Baugrand__circa_1867

A rare gem-set and diamond peacock brooch, by Gustave Baugrand, circa 1867. Photo Bonhams

Finely modelled as a peacock, the body pavé-set with circular-cut sapphires, to a sprung fan of rose-cut and cushion-shaped diamond plumes each highlighted with a square-cut emerald 'eye' and a circular-cut ruby, perched on a 10.0mm pearl, signed Baugrand, detachable brooch fitting, height 5.9cm, pearl untested, fitted maker's case - Estimate: £10,000 - 15,000, US$ 16,000 - 25,000

Notes: Jewels by the French Imperial jeweller, Gustave Baugrand (1826-1870), are rare. In 1867, at the height of his short-lived career, he exhibited his superlative designs in a non-competitive capacity, under the title 'Joaillier de SM l'Empereur' at the Exposition Universelle in Paris to much critical acclaim. A peacock brooch similar to this may be seen in the photograph of his stand published by the jewellery historian, Henri Vever, in 1908. Baugrand is known to have made jewels for the personal collections of Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie as well as the Queen of Portugal. At the 1867 Paris Exposition, he also came to the attention of the British collector, the Earl of Dudley. Baugrand was awarded the Legion d'Honneur for his services to the jewellery industry. His career was cut short in 1870 when he died during the Siege of Paris.

See Vever, Henri, 'French Jewellery of the 19th Century', translation by Purcell, Katherine, London, 2001, page 770, for an illustration of a similar peacock brooch by Baugrand.

Bonhams. Fine Jewellery, 21 Sep 2011, New Bond Street www.bonhams.com