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Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring, Underwood's. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

DALLAS, TX.- A Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring, custom-made by Underwood's, is expected to bring in excess of $100,000 when it comes to auction on Dec. 5 as the lead lot in Heritage Auctions' Fine Jewelry Signature(r) Auction, being held at the company's Design District Annex, 1518 Slocum Street.

The ring, featuring a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 10.02 carats, comes to auction from The Property of an Arkansas Estate.

"This gorgeous ring is the perfect centerpiece for one of our deepest auctions yet," said Jill Burgum, Director of Fine Jewelry at Heritage. "We've put together a wide variety of pieces, nearly 1,600 in all, designed to appeal to collectors across the spectrum."

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Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring, Underwood's. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The ring features a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond measuring 12.09 x 10.92 x 8.17 mm and weighing 10.02 carats, set in 18k gold, enhanced by cut-cornered bullet-cut diamonds weighing a total of 0.92 carat, set in platinum. Total diamond weight is 10.94 carats. A GIA Laboratory report # 15066808, dated May 31, 2006, stating Natural Fancy Intense Yellow color, VS1 clarity, accompanies the center diamond. Ring was custom made by Underwood's. Gross weight 9.90 grams.

Size: 6 (sizeable). Estimate: $100,000 - $150,000.  

The Property of an Arkansas Estate              

A Diamond, Platinum Ring, featuring a square modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 9.02 carats, is a worthy compliment to the Fancy Yellow Diamond, bringing its beauty and elegance to bear on its $100,000+ pre-auction estimate. 

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Diamond, Platinum Ring. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The ring features a square modified brilliant-cut diamond measuring 11.79 x 11.55 x 8.18 mm and weighing 9.02 carats, set in platinum. A GIA Laboratory report # 15856597, dated May 17, 2007, stating J color, SI1 clarity, accompanies the diamond. Gross weight 5.10 grams.
Size: 6-1/2 (sizeable) Estimate: $100,000 - $125,000

An opulent Diamond, Gold Jewelry Suite, featuring more than 100 carats in diamonds, has been drawing considerable collector attention as the auction approaches. It is expected to bring $80,000+ when it crosses the block, a pre-auction estimate matched by a stunning Colored Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Necklace featuring oval-shaped fancy intense yellow diamonds, with a total of more than 32.00 carats. 

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Diamond, Gold Jewelry Suite. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The suite includes: a necklace featuring marquise-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 15.00 carats, enhanced by pear-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 5.00 carats, accented by baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 27.00 carats, further accented by full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 13.10 carats; a  matching bracelet featuring marquise-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.25 carats, enhanced by pear-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 3.00 carats, accented by baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 8.60 carats, further accented by full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 10.20 carats; a matching pair of earrings showcasing marquise-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 3.55 carats, enhanced by pear-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.55 carats, accented by baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 6.80 carats, completed by posts and omega backs; together with a matching ring highlighted by marquise-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.60 carat, enhanced by pear-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.90 carat, accented by baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.65 carats; all set in 18k gold. Total diamond weight is approximately 100.20 carats. Gross weight for the suite is 231.60 grams.
Centerpiece Dimensions: 3 inches x 1-3/4 inches
Necklace Length: 16 inches
Bracelet Dimensions: 6-7/8 inches x 1-1/8 inches
Earring Dimensions: 2 inches x 3/4 inch
Ring Size: 7 (sizeable)
*Note: earrings are designed for pierced ears Estimate: $80,000 - $100,000.

A Diamond, Platinum Ring featuring a round brilliant-cut diamond, weighing approximately 6.30 carats, enhanced by tapered baguette-cut diamonds, rounds out the top quintet of the auction with a pre-auction estimate of $60,000+.

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Diamond, Platinum Ring. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The ring features a round brilliant-cut diamond measuring 12.30 x 12.30 x 6.85 mm and weighing approximately 6.30 carats, enhanced by tapered baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.40 carat, set in platinum. Total diamond weight is approximately 6.70 carats. Gross weight 6.56 grams.
Size: 7-3/4 (sizeable) Estimate: $60,000 - $80,000

The auction also features pieces from The Gladys Glad Jewelry Collection, who was, in the 1920s and early 1930s, one of the highest paid showgirls on Broadway. She rose to fame as the most celebrated of Florenz Ziegfeld's renowned "Ziegfeld Follies Girls," and - along with husband, Mark Hellinger - made up one half of a Hollywood power couple.

A principal highlight is Glad's Retro Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, Gold Jewelry Suite by Merrin of New York, estimated at $15,000+. The lot includes the original artwork for the earring design.

"This collection represents wonderful mid-century jewelry design," said Burgum. "It's a great chance to own a piece of Broadway theater history from a woman once voted 'most beautiful woman in the world.'"

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Retro Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, Gold Jewelry Suite, Merrin. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The suite includes a pair of earrings featuring round-cut rubies weighing a total of approximately 6.50 carats, enhanced by full and single-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.50 carats, set in platinum, completed by clip backs; as well as a brooch featuring oval-shaped rubies (one is round-shaped) weighing a total of approximately 25.00 carats, enhanced by full and single-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 7.50 carats, accented by baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 3.50 carats, further highlighted by marquise-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.20 carats, set in platinum, completed by a double pinstem and catch on the reverse. Total diamond weight is approximately 13.70 carats and total ruby weight is approximately 31.50 carats. Gross weight 90.71 grams.
Earring Dimensions: 7/8 inch x 7/8 inch
Brooch Dimensions: 2-3/4 inches x 2-3/4 inches
*Note: earrings are designed for non-pierced ears

The Gladys Glad Jewelry Collection. Estimate: $15,000 - $20,000.                

Further highlights include, but are not limited to:

Ruby, Diamond, Platinum Earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960: The earrings feature oval-shaped ruby cabochons weighing a total of approximately 12.00 carats, enhanced by full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 10.00 carats, set in platinum. From Property Formerly from the Estate of Barbara Hutton. Estimate: $30,000 - $40,000.

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Ruby, Diamond, Platinum Earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The earrings feature oval-shaped ruby cabochons weighing a total of approximately 12.00 carats, enhanced by full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 10.00 carats, set in platinum, completed by posts and clip backs, marked Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, reference #39706. Gross weight 19.15 grams.
Dimensions: 1 inch x 3/4 inch. Estimate: $30,000 - $40,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels:Parisian jeweler Alfred Van Cleef opened his salon in partnership with his brothers-in-law, Julien and Charles Arpels, in 1906. The company quickly earned a reputation for using only the highest quality colored gemstones. Their timeless designs employed elegant curves and clean fluid lines; capturing the essence of beauty in motion. Their success was immediate. In 1930, the firm patented the first minaudiere, a fancy purse-like compartmentalized lady’s vanity case. In 1933, Van Cleef and Arpels introduced "invisible setting", or “mystery setting”.  This innovative technique took the market by storm. It created the illusion of floating gems, each being fastened by wires from the underside of the piece.  It was popular throughout the 1930s and 1940s before reappearing in the 1990s. The company is continues to be family run, managing locations across the globe.  . Jewelry Designer

Diamond, Platinum Bracelet, David Webb: The bracelet features full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 9.50 carats, enhanced by baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 7.50 carats, set in platinum, marked Webb for David Webb. Estimate: $30,000 - $40,000.

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Diamond, Platinum Bracelet, David Webb. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The bracelet features full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 9.50 carats, enhanced by baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 7.50 carats, set in platinum, marked Webb for David Webb. Gross weight 43.60 grams.
Length: 6-1/2 inches. Estimate: $30,000 - $40,000.

David Webb:Formed in 1946 by partners David Webb and Nina Silberstein, David Webb Inc. created colorful jewelry recognized for its bold, sculptural design. Webb drew inspiration from the work of Cartier, Seaman Schepps, Faberge and Verdura. His passion for color, texture, enamel, gems and unusual materials brought him to the forefront of jewelry design in the 1950s and 1960s. His fondness for nature and ancient cultures influenced his most famous motifs, stylized animals and flowers. David Webb created contemporary wearable gold sculptures until his death in 1975. He left behind a legacy as one of the pioneers of American jewelry design. David Webb Inc. continues to produce jewelry based upon original artwork and sketches under the guidance of the Silberstein family.. Jewelry Designer

Diamond, Platinum Necklace, Fred Leighton: The necklace features seven round brilliant-cut diamond drops weighing a total of approximately 6.25 carats, surmounted by full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 13.75 carats, marked Fred Leighton. Estimate: $25,000 - $35,000

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Diamond, Platinum Necklace, Fred Leighton. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The necklace features seven round brilliant-cut diamond drops weighing a total of approximately 6.25 carats, surmounted by full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 13.75 carats, set in platinum, marked Fred Leighton. Total diamond weight is approximately 20.00 carats. Gross weight 91.90 grams.
Dimensions:17 inches x 3/4 inch
Estimate: $25,000 - $35,000

Emerald, Gold Bracelet, David Webb: The hinged cuff features pear-shaped emerald cabochons weighing a total of approximately 0.30 carats, marked David Webb. Estimate: $10,000 - $15,000.

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Emerald, Gold Bracelet, David Webb. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions

The hinged cuff features pear-shaped emerald cabochons weighing a total of approximately 0.30 carat, set in textured 18k gold, marked David Webb. Gross weight 113.60 grams.
Dimensions: 6-1/2 inches x 1-1/2 inches. Estimate: $10,000 - $15,000.