The 'Hippocampe' Brooch by René Boivin. Photo Lucas Rarities of Mayfair

A piece of jewellery history has been acquired by period jewellers Lucas Rarities.

The piece is a unique fantasy brooch by Rene Boivin comprising of emeralds, rubies and a fine natural light grey pearl pendant that formerly belonged to Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil Heiress. Millicent Rogers was a well known American socialite, fashion icon and prolific art and jewellery collector.

The brooch is a typical example of the imagination of Jeanne Boivin and her designers, both Juliette Moutard and Germaine Boivin, who were influenced by fantasy creatures ranging from mermaids to angels. This brooch has at its centre a Hippocamp, a creature from Greek mythology believed to be an adult seahorse which boasts a horse’s head and torso with the scaly serpentine tail of a fish. These Hippocampi feature in Homeric poems as the symbol of Poseidon/Neptune, whose shell chariot was drawn across the sea by two or four of these creatures. They were also the mounts of Nereid nymphs and sea-gods. It is possible that Boivin took the pose of the Hippocamp from one of the two Hippocampi from the Trevi fountain in Rome.

The two Hippocampi symbolise the fluctuating moods of the sea, with one calm and obedient while the other is restive. The shell is ornately set with emerald-cut emeralds and most likely represents Neptune’s chariot. The impressive natural pearl pendant suspended from the ruby bow weighs approximately 100 grains and is another reference to the marine fantasy of the piece and is detachable.

The original design for this piece was executed by Juliette Moutard in 1938. (Cf Rene Boivin Jeweller, Françoise Cailles, p.333)

The brooch will be showcased at the Haughtons International Fair, Art Antiques London in Kensington on 9th June to 15th June. 

Sam Loxton of Lucas Rarities, says, “We are delighted to have acquired this spectacular brooch, it is one of the most imaginative pieces of 1930s jewellery we have seen and certainly one of the best creations from the legendary design house of Boivin. "

Lucas Rarities of Mayfair. www.lucasrarities.com