A superb Art Deco diamond tiara by Cartier. Estimate £100,000-150,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

LONDON.- Christie’s London sale of Important Jewels on Wednesday 13 June 2012 comprises 368 lots, including stunning royal and aristocratic jewels formerly from both The Collection of Her Imperial Highness Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary and The Property of Beatrice Countess of Granard OBE, as well as from The Collection of The Late Countess of Dudley which is led by a superb Art Deco diamond tiara by Cartier (estimate: £100,000-150,000). Spanning four centuries, the sale presents a strong array of rare historic rings, diamonds and pearls showcasing The Cowdray Pearls (estimate: £280,000-350,000), with estimates ranging from £2,000 to £350,000. The roll call of signed jewels by the leading houses and designers includes: Boucheron, Cartier and Chaumet to Chopard, Graff and Van Cleef & Arpels. 

ROYAL, ARISTOCRATIC AND HISTORIC JEWELS 
The Cowdray Pearls, a rare natural pearl necklace, composed of a single row of thirty-eight graduated natural grey pearls, lead the sale (estimate: £280,000-350,000). From the collection of the late Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932), these rare and beautiful coloured pearls are a testament to their owner’s discerning taste as a distinguished connoisseur and collector. 

The Cowdray Pearls, a rare natural pearl necklace. Estimate £280,000-350,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

Composed of a single row of thirty-eight graduated natural grey pearls, measuring 11.4-6.8mm, to the rectangular mixed-cut diamond clasp, 43.2cm long
The clasp with maker's mark JC in a rectanglar lozenge and indistinctly no.270. 
Accompanied by report no.05554 dated 27 April 2012 from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory, London, stating the pearls are natural, saltwater

Provenance: Offered by the Personal Representatives of the late Elizabeth, Viscountess Cowdray 

Notes; The Cowdray family fortune was based upon the success of a building and contracting business which was developed during the late 19th century by Weetman Dickinson Pearson, later to become the 1st Viscount Cowdray. Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932) was a distinguished connoisseur and collector. She was well known for her superb collection of pictures, furniture and works of art and these rare coloured pearls are a testament to her discerning taste for beautiful and unusual objects. 

One of 17 jewels offered from the Collection of The Late Countess of Dudley, also known as the beautiful, vivacious and talented actress and dancer Maureen Swanson, is the superb Art Deco Cartier tiara; a star lot in the sale (estimate: £100,000-150,000). It is composed of five graduated shield shaped clip brooches, each resembling the Pylon, the tapering monumental towers of ancient Egypt whose bold form inspired so much 1930s design. Together, mounted atop the simple diamond line frame, these clips are transformed into a modern soaring geometric skyline, their design recalling both the architectural innovations of the era together with its inimitable style. In bringing together these motifs this tiara is an exceptional and truly evocative example of the Art Deco period and one of only a few examples of its kind; providing collectors and institutions with a remarkable opportunity.

A superb Art Deco diamond tiara by Cartier. Estimate £100,000-150,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

Composed of five graduated shield shaped clips, each tapered brilliant and baguette-cut diamond panel raised on the similarly-set diamond frame, circa 1930, clips 5.1, 4.5, 4.5, 3.5 and 3.5cm long respectively, with five detachable clip fittings, one brooch fitting and a cuff bangle, one diamond deficient
Principal clip signed Cartier London and no.27713, pair of smallest clips signed Cartier London and one no.9029 

Notes: Individually the form of each of these exemplary Art Deco clip brooches bears a striking resemblance to the Pylon, the tapering monumental towers of ancient Egypt, whose bold form inspired so much design throughout the 1930s. When brought together, however, mounted atop the simple diamond line frame, these clips are transformed into a truly modern soaring geometric skyline, their design at once recalling both the architectural innovations of the era together with it's inimitable style.

In bringing together these motifs this tiara is an exceptional and truly evocative example of the Art Deco period and one of only a few examples of its kind.

Leading the small group of jewels formerly from the collection of HIH Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary (lots 289-293) is a 12.15 carat diamond circular single-stone ring (estimate: £70,000-100,000). Another ring with notable provenance is an Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1905, which was formerly in the collection of Beatrice Countess of Granard OBE (estimate: £30,000-40,000) Born Beatrice Mills, the Countess was a daughter of the great American financier and banker Ogden Mills. A famous hostess and race horse owner and breeder, in 1909 she married the 8th Earl of Granard, who was Master of the Horse to both Edward VII and George V.

A diamond-set cigarette case, by Cartier. Estimate £4,000 - £5,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

Of rectangular shape, the cover decorated with a radiating engraved line pattern and applied flowerhead accents, some with circular-cut diamond collet centres, further line engraving to the reverse, concealed flush thumb piece, circa 1950, 9.0 x 7.9cm, French assay marks for gold, with fitted red leather case by Cartier. Signed Cartier Paris, no. 017051 and 08571. 

Formerly from the collection of Her Imperial Highness Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary (1932-2001), the second wife of His Imperial Majesty Mohammad King Pahlavi, Shah of Iran

A diamond single-stone ring. Estimate £70,000 - £100,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

The circular-cut diamond weighing approximately 12.15 carats, to the tapering baguette-cut diamond shoulders, raised on a plain hoop 

Formerly from the collection of Her Imperial Highness Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary (1932-2001), the second wife of His Imperial Majesty Mohammad King Pahlavi, Shah of Iran

An Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring. Estimate £30,000 - 40,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

The oval mixed-cut sapphire to the deep millegrain-set circular-cut diamond gallery, pierced and engraved with scroll detailing, raised on diamond-set shoulders and a plain hoop, circa 1905 

Notes: Formerly in the collection of Beatrice Countess of Granard OBE (1883-1972), who was born Beatrice Mills, daughter of the great American financier and banker Ogden Mills. A famous hostess and race horse owner and breeder, she married in 1909 the 8th Earl of Granard, who was Master of the Horse to both Edward VII and George V 

Since 1766, Christie’s has been synonymous with auctions of Royal and aristocratic collections. From the sale of Madame du Barry’s jewels in 1795; the Russian Crown Jewels in 1927, and the Private Collection of HRH The Princess Margaret in 2006, to The Portland Pearls which were sold more recently in 2010, these events have created worldwide interest and are remembered as legendary moments in auction history.

Smaller and very accessible historic lots include a striking array of rings spanning medieval times to the 18th century, which are offered from The Property of a Lady (estimates range from £500 up to £2,500).

CARTIER
Always a highlight of the London sale, the regular Cartier section features over 40 lots, from jewels and cufflinks to watches, clocks and accessories. Jewellery highlights include an important Art Deco diamond and gem bracelet of Oriental inspiration, circa 1925 (estimate: £100,000-150,000), as well as a pair of exquisite platinum and diamond ear pendants, composed of a graduated line of three brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a pear-shaped diamond drop (estimate: £100,000-150,000).

An exceptional Art Deco diamond and gem bracelet, by Cartier. Estimate: £100,000-150,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

Of Oriental inspiration, the pavé-set circular-cut diamond band mounted with stylised calibré onyx flowering branches, the cabochon ruby and emerald 'blossom' interspersed with single emerald cabochon 'buds', to the similarly set buckle clasp, circa 1925, 18.2cm long, one emerald cabochon deficient. Signed Cartier 

Provenance: Christie's Geneva, 18 November 1999, lot 644 

A pair of platinum and diamond ear pendants, by Cartier. Estimate: £100,000-150,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2012

Each composed of a graduated line of three brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a pear-shaped diamond drop, 4.2cm long, post and clip fittings, London hallmarks for platinum
Signed Cartier, no.52110C 
Accompanied by report no.1109187465 dated 11 December 2008 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 0.53ct diamond is D colour, VVS2 clarity
Accompanied by report no.2106119095 dated 06 November 2008 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 0.54ct diamond is D colour, VVS1 clarity
Accompanied by report no.6107507532 dated 15 January 2009 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 0.43ct diamond is D colour, VVS1 clarity
Accompanied by report no.6107331040 dated 30 October 2008 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 0.41ct diamond is D colour, VVS1 clarity
Accompanied by report no.17211777 dated 19 May 2008 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 1.30ct diamond is D colour, IF clarity
Accompanied by report no.2105379955 dated 10 November 2008 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 2.21ct diamond is D colour, IF clarity
Accompanied by report no.17474943 dated 12 August 2008 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 2.29ct diamond is D colour, IF clarity
Accompanied by report no.17166498 dated 16 April 2008 from The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), stating the 1.30ct diamond is D colour, IF clarity (2)

The desirable selection of watches feature a lady’s diamond and gem-set wristwatch (estimate: £12,000-15,000) and a rare and unusual helm wristwatch (estimate: £10,000-15,000). Clocks capturing the essence of Cartier’s inimitable style include an Art Deco silver-gilt desk clock (estimate: £5,000-7,000). There is also a delightful array of highly coveted accessories, ranging from cigarette cases and evening bags to vanity cases. 

Christie's. Important Jewels. 13 June 2012. London, King Street