Paul Poiret (born 1879 - died 1944), "Samovar". Evening dress, 1919-1920. Rayon, embroidered with gilt strip, machine-made lace over gilt tissue and tulle. Given by Mr Vern Lambert. Museum number: T.338-1974.  Victoria & Albert Museum  © V&A Images

This dramatic gold and black evening dress, called 'Samovar', is composed of a figure-hugging, low-waisted bodice attached to a gathered lace skirt. The black rayon bodice is embroidered with gilt strip in meanders, and the machine-made lace skirt is worn over a double petticoat of gilt tissue and black tulle.

The designer Paul Poiret (1879-1944) was at his peak in the years before the First World War, but he remained a creative force in the 1920s.