Callot Soeurs, Evening dress, 1922-25. silk satin. Given by Lady Lebus. Museum number: T.73-1958. Victoria & Albert Museum  © V&A Images

In 1895 the four daughters of a Parisian antique dealer named Callot, the sisters-named Marie, Marthe, Regina and Josephine-set up a salon on rue Taitbout, where they worked with antique laces and ribbons to fashion blouses and lingerie. Their father had been a painter and teacher of design, and their mother a lace maker. The sisters formed a Couture house making a variety of garments. Although their married names were different, they called their salon Callot Soeurs (Sisters). In 1914 they moved to grander quarters in Avenue Matignon. 
Madame Marie Gerber, the elder sister, was in charge of design. She had worked earlier for Raudnitz, a famous dressmaking house.

They worked with exquisite and unusual materials and Chinese silks, with Orientalism a favourite theme. Their clothes were known for their exotic detail, kimono sleeves, tasselled girdles, panels of embroidered satin or velvet, medallions, etc. They were among the first designers to use lame to make dresses. 
The exotic detailing that marked many of their design is visible in this striking silk evening dress featuring a large scale Chinese-style floral motif.

In 1928 Madame Gerber's son Pierre took over, and for a decade continued his mother's standards, but the fashions had changed and their popularity waned. 
In 1937 the house was absorbed into the house of Calvet.