Charles James (born 1906 - died 1978), "Tree Dress". Evening dress, 1955 . Silk taffeta, the bodice mounted on a boned foundation, the skirt supported by net and cotton webbing underskirts, fastened with two zips, mainly hand-sewn with some machine-stitching. Given by Mrs Ronald Tree. Museum number: T.277-1974. Victoria & Albert Museum  © V&A Images

The inspiration for this elegant evening dress probably came from cuirasse bodices and bustle skirts of the 1870s. James was fascinated by the cut of historical dress and explored innovative new forms of garment construction, such as spiral draping. His forte included the creation of luxurious, full-skirted evening gowns. He looked on dresses as works of art, as did his customers. Born in Britain, James (1906-1978) worked as a milliner and custom dressmaker in New York in 1924-1929. In 1929 he opened premises in London, and a Paris branch in 1934. In 1939 he returned to New York and went on inventing and reworking toiles and constructing extraordinary clothes in lavish fabrics for a devoted clientele.

This dress was worn by Mrs Ronald Tree and forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. This Collection was brought together by the society photographer Sir Cecil Beaton (1904-1980). With great energy and determination Beaton contacted the well-dressed elite of Europe and North America to help create this lasting monument to the art of dress. The Collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.