Mariano Fortuny, evening dress of pleated silk in the style of a Grecian chiton, ca. 1920
Mariano Fortuny, born 1871 - died 1949. Long, ankle length, plain black evening dress of pleated silk in the style of a Grecian chiton, ca. 1920. Given by Mrs Hollond. Museum number: T.423&A-1976. Victoria & Albert Museum, London © V&A Images
Tubular shape, with gathering at the underarm, and short sleeves which are extensions of the tube of the dress. Opened at neck and shoulders with draw string fastening across. Five large and five small ornmental glass beads of brown and white are strung onto the drawstring.
The multi-talented Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) was a painter, theatre designer, photographer, inventor and scientist, although he is best known as a creator of extraordinary fabrics and clothes. In 1909 he registered his design (based on the Ionic version of the Greek classical garment the chiton) for the 'Delphos' dress, of which this glistening black columnar example is a typical representative. The dress consists of five narrow widths of pleated silk hand-sewn into a tube just 47 cm wide. The neck and sleeves are adjusted to fit by concealed draw-strings, while a black rouleau, threaded with Venetian glass beads, laces the outer sleeves.