Baju, Jacket, tailored from Coromandel Coast cloth in Sumatra, second half of the 19th century
Baju, Jacket, tailored from Coromandel Coast cloth in Sumatra, second half of the 19th century. Cotton, block-printed mordant-dyed, resist-dyed, and painted, height 112cm. Given by Mary Hunt Kahlenberg. Museum number: IS.100-1990. Victoria & Albert Museum © V&A Images
A tailor in Sumatra made this man's jacket (‘baju’) from cotton cloth produced on the Coromandel Coast of India. The majority of Indian trade cloths were designed and used as untailored garments. Some, such as this example, were made up into sewn garments to meet the dress requirements of the host culture.
Indian textile workers used a variety of techniques to create the design. Some parts of the pattern have been created using hand-painting and hand-printing with wooden blocks carved with the image in relief. Others were made using a ‘resist’ to prevent certain areas of the cloth from absorbing the dye.
Bibliographic References: John Guy, Woven Cargoes. Indian Textiles in the East, Thames and Hudson, 1998, pl. 80