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21 juillet 2012

Paul Poiret (1879-1944), dress, 1912

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Paul Poiret (1879-1944), dress, 1912. Purple silk damask with cotton velvet and silk cord. Museum Purchase. 2008.6.1. Fashion Institute of Technology © Copyright 2012 The Museum at FIT.

This dress belonged to Poiret’s wife Denise, who served as model and muse for her husband. Acknowledging her modernity, he stated, “In dressing Madame Poiret, I strive for omission, not addition.” The bold color palette and rectilinear design, stripped of ornamentation, are typical of her style, as is the girlish, pleated white collar. Inspired by her slim, un-corseted figure, Poiret eliminated the waistline and played with proportion, creating a silhouette that appears to elongate and flatten the body.
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