Paul Poiret (born 1879 - died 1944), Mantle, ca. 1913. Hand-sewn yellow wool and black chiffon. Museum number: T.165&A-1967. Victoria & Albert Museum © V&A Images.

This mantle was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style. While most of the clothes of hers held by the Museum are from the 1920s, the collection also includes a group of 1910s clothes such as this mantle associated with Paul Poiret, who was a personal friend of Emilie Grigsby.

Historical significance: This mantle illustrates how Poiret was able to combine with rare harmony the bold colours of Fauvism, the vision of Cubism and the exoticism of Eastern garments.

Exhibition: Poiret: Kings of Fashion (Moscow, Kremlin Museums 06/09/2011-15/01/2011)