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8 décembre 2012

Dazzling prices in £6m Bonhams Fine Jewellery Sale with over £1m for Van Cleef & Arpels brooch

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A magnificent and rare art deco natural pearl, emerald and diamond brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels. The surmount designed as a geometric labyrinth of old brilliant, step, square, baguette and single-cut diamonds, suspending similarly set highly articulated diamond cascades of unequal length with arrow-shaped terminals, one side with a detachable drop-shaped emerald pendant with rose-cut diamond cap and double-sided lozenge-shaped diamond surmount, the central chain of five natural pearls terminating in a detachable drop-shaped pearl pendant with pierced rose-cut diamond cap and sugarloaf cabochon emerald surmount, diamonds weigh 17.70 carats total, emerald drop weighs 13.57 carats, emerald sugarloaf cabochon weighs 0.70 carat, drop-shaped pearl approximately 56 grains, mounted in platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 28051, French assay marks, length 11.7cm. Sold for £1,138,850. Photo: Bonhams.

This brooch is recorded in the Van Cleef & Arpels' archive as also being a pendentif (pendant).

Accompanied by a certificate from SSEF stating that the drop-shaped emerald is of Colombian origin, with minor clarity modification in the form of oil in fissures. Certificate number 65526, dated 19th October 2012.

Accompanied by a certificate from SSEF stating that the drop-shaped pearl is natural, saltwater, with indications of weak artificial colour modification by oil. Certificate number 65525, dated 22nd October 2012.

LONDON.- A stunning pearl, diamond and emerald art deco brooch by the renowned jewellers Van Cleef & Arpels topped Bonhams Fine Jewellery sale, making £1,138,850, yesterday, 6th December 2012. The brooch, which was estimated at £250,000 – 350,000 was among several lots which far exceeded their estimates, in a sale which realised over £6 million and sold 93 per cent by value. 

In a packed saleroom, bidders entered a series of fierce battles for the striking designs and rare pieces. Among the most highly anticipated lots were several museum-quality pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, the jeweller favoured by stars such as Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. 

In addition to the exquisite brooch, designed as a geometric labyrinth of diamonds with two main pendants of emerald and pearl, two further Van Cleef & Arpels pieces made prices well over their estimates. A ruby and diamond bracelet from 1923 sold for £361,250 against a pre-sale estimate of £40,000 – 60,000 and a 3.26 carat Burmese ruby and diamond ring sold for £277,250, equivalent to an outstanding £85,000 (US$136,000) per carat. 

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A ruby and diamond bracelet, by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1923. The graduated row of step-cut rubies alternating with pairs of baguette-cut diamonds, diamonds approximately 9.20 carats total, signed, numbered, French assay mark, length 18.0cm, fitted maker's case. Sold for £361,250. Photo Bonhams

With a copy of the original bill of sale from Van Cleef & Arpels.

Accompanied by a certificate from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that one ruby was tested at random and found to be natural, of Burmese origin, with no evidence of heat treatment. Certificate number 06223, dated 7th September 2012.

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A ruby and diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. The step-cut ruby, weighing 3.26 carats, between architectural shoulders channel-set with baguette-cut diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris, numbered, ring size L½. Sold for £277,250. Photo: Bonhams

Accompanied by a certificate from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that the natural ruby is of Burmese origin, with no evidence of heat treatment. Certificate number 06529, dated 26th October 2012

Other exceptional prices were achieved for diamonds, with an elegant asscher-cut single-stone ring of 19.56 carats (I colour, VVS2 clarity) realising £858,850 against a pre-sale estimate of £315,000 – 440,000 or £43,900 (US$70,200) per carat. 

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An elegant diamond single-stone ring circa 1935The Asscher-cut diamond, weighing 19.56 carats, within a six-claw setting, between baguette-cut diamond shoulders, ring size M½. Sold for £858,850. Photo Bonhams

Accompanied by a certificate from GIA stating that the diamond is I colour, VVS2 clarity. Certificate number 2155050534, dated 18th October 2012.

The Royal Asscher Diamond Company was founded in 1854 by Abraham Isaac Asscher and is still owned by the family today. 

Joseph and Abraham Asscher, Abraham's sons, became two of the most illustrious diamond experts of the 20th century and handled and cut some of the world's greatest diamonds such as the Excelsior and the Culinan. Legend surrounds the cutting of the 3,106 carat Culinan, with rumours of Joseph breaking his tools and fainting once the cleaving strike was made. In truth, after he hit the Cullinan in exactly the right place and it cleaved according to his original calculations, he paused, crouched to examine his work and then rushed into the next room to let out a relieved cheer. 

In 1902 Joseph Asscher invented the celebrated Asscher-cut, the first signature cut of a diamond. The Asscher-cut is still regarded today as one of the most innovative and prestigious cuts of diamond.

A sapphire and diamond ring from circa 1915 was also among the top lots, selling for £337,250 against a pre-sale estimate of £20,000 – 30,000. Featuring a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing 6.78 carats, the price per carat was £49,700 (US$79,500). 

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A sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1915. The cushion-shaped sapphire, weighing 6.78 carats, in a surround of single-cut diamonds to a delicately pierced gallery,fitted case by Crouch, 48 Queen Street, Cardiff, ring size P. Sold for £337,250. Photo Bonhams

Accompanied by a certificate from Gübelin stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no evidence of heat treatment. Certificate number 12100217, dated 31st October 2012.

Jean Ghika, Director of the Jewellery Department for the UK and Europe said “The jewellery was extremely well received at our pre-sale viewings in London, New York, Hong Kong and Geneva. There was intense international competition to secure the top lots with over 40 telephone lines and further bidding from the internet. The quality of the items offered clearly demonstrates that for rare and exceptional jewels the market has never been stronger.” 

The top ten results for the sale, including buyer’s premium are as follows: 

• Lot 183, A magnificent and rare art deco natural pearl, emerald and diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels: £1,138,850

• Lot 184, An elegant diamond single-stone ring: £858,850 

• Lot 178, A ruby and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels: £361,250

• Lot 179, A sapphire and diamond ring: £337,250

• Lot 177, A ruby and diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels: £277,250

• Lot 182, A pair of diamond pendent earrings/rings (3): £217,250

• Lot 181, A pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings: £163, 250

• Lot 144, A diamond necklace: £157, 250

• Lot 35, A ruby single-stone ring: £115,250 • Lot 174, A single-row necklace: £115,250 

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A pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings. Each natural pearl with a pierced cap set with rose-cut diamonds, to a lozenge-shaped surmount set with brilliant-cut diamonds, length 3.5cmSold for £163,250Photo Bonhams

Accompanied by a certificate from SSEF stating that both pearls are natural, saltwater. Certificate number 65561, dated 22nd October 2012.

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A diamond necklace, circa 1965. The highly articulated openwork frame set with brilliant-cut diamonds between undulating rows of baguette-cut diamonds,diamonds approximately 57.20 carats total, largest brilliant-cut diamond weighing 2.49 carats, later backchain. Sold for £157,250. Photo Bonhams

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A pair of diamond pendent earrings-rings. Each earring designed as a row of old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, suspending a large brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 9.65 and 9.60 carats, within a pierced heart gallery, remaining diamonds approximately 1.65 carats total, the large brilliant-cut diamonds can be detached and worn in the supplied ring mounts, earring length 4.4cm, ring size L (3). Sold for £217,250. Photo Bonhams

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