A diamond necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2013.

Designed as a line of baguette-cut diamonds accented by brilliant-cut diamonds, the front suspending a graduated fringe of marquise, baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, circa 1950, 39.0 cm long, with French assay mark for platinum, in brown suede Van Cleef & Arpels case. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, No. 62268. Estimate $767,449 - $1,072,779. Price Realized $836,768

Accompanied by three reports dated 27 May 2011 from the Gemological Institute of America with the following details:

Report Weight Colour Clarity
2131442420 1.71 F VS2
6137442415 1.58 E VS1
2131442411 1.28 F VS2

The foundation of the famous Parisian jewellery house, Van Cleef & Arpels was built romantically on a love story. The amorous union of Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a precious stone merchant, and Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a lapidary and diamond broker in 1895, created a glamorous brand that lives on today. Their passion for jewellery and an entrepreneurial spirit led them to collaborate with Estelle's brothers, Charles, Julien and Louis. It was 1906 when they opened the original boutique at 22, Place Vendôme, Paris, an area distinguished for its elegant and luxurious occupants. Extraordinarily, Van Cleef & Arpel's address has never changed, and has thus become its hallmark. As the brand's reputation grew among the international elite, branches were soon set up in the most fashionable seaside and resort towns throughout the world.

In 1926, the daughter of Alfred and Estelle, Renée Puissant, great Artistic Director of the Maison, took charge of the brand's designs. For the next two decades the firm was marked by highly creative designs. The 1930s, in particular, saw some of the company's most iconic designs: the house's arguable trademark, the Mystery Setting - where the mounting of gemstones is cleverly hidden behind the continuous calibre-cut ruby and sapphire surface of the jewel - was invented in 1933; and the concept of the ingenious clutch bag called the Minaudière precious case, made in honour of Florence Jay Gould, was invented by Charles Arpels. The versatile 'Passe Partout' range was developed at this time. In the following decades, the firm upheld its reputation for innovation with the snowflake jewels of the 1940s, the Zip necklace of the 1950s, the ballet jewels of the 1960s and the Alhambra theme of the 1970s.

Ingenuity and elegance combined with Van Cleef & Arpel's use of the most precious and rarest materials enthralled the most discerning and exclusive clientele. Seducing royalty, aristocrats and Hollywood icons, some of these infamous names include Prince Aga Khan, Queen Sirikit of Thailand, Princess Fawzia of Egypt, the Empress of Iran Farah Diba, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor, Romy Schneider, Sophia Loren and Maria Callas.

Today, Van Cleef & Arpels continues to be renowned for its innovative techniques and designs which include only the highest quality gemstones. Successive collections have continued to show elegance, refinement and originality indicative of the brand. Without a doubt, it is these qualities that have allowed the firm to perpetuate over time and extend its prevalence throughout the world.

This magnificent diamond necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels; truly an exquisite example of fine craftsmanship and elegance, symbolic of the brand. Set with the highest quality diamonds, the necklace is the reminiscence of post-war fashion, an explosive period of sumptuous beauty. The end of World War II ushered in a time of celebration. While Europe was in the process of being rebuilt, Paris quickly rebounded to become the center of business and fashion once more. New styles were introduced encapsulating the outburst of creativity and luxury. One of the most important couturiers of the twentieth century, the legendary Christian Dior presented The New Look, featuring a small cinched waist with a very full skirt that fell to mid-calf. After years of military and civilian uniformity, women finally assumed a ladylike charm, emulating screen stars such as Marlene Dietrich and Rita Hayworth.

Diamonds were once again available and designers created magnificent necklaces that rivaled the great examples from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Van Cleef & Arpels was quick to accede to this new demand, designing jewellery in which the gemstones dictated the style of the composition. Created in circa 1950, this necklace is an adaptation of a bib necklace with a row of baguette diamonds suspending pendants with baguette, brilliant, and marquise diamonds. It complemented the silk, lace, and brocade evening gowns of The New Look. Van Cleef & Arpels at that time considered the necklace so unique that they sought to restrict others from emulating what they had created with a patent. This necklace is a glittering survival of the past and remains a treasure of great significance.

Literature: Cf. Van Cleef & Arpels Joailliers (promotional folder), c. 1948, no. 3 
Cf. Vogue, September 15, 1946, p. 182.

Christie's. THE FIRST SHANGHAI AUCTION. 26 September 2013. Shanghai