Platinum and 'Taveez' diamond cliquet, Cartier. Photo Sotheby's

Of Indian inspiration, the shield-shaped cliquet brooch of openwork design centering a 19th Century 'taveez' diamond briolette weighing 6.11 carats, completed by a fan-shaped terminal, set with round, baguette and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.25 carats, signed Cartier, numbered 3760; circa 1925. With signed box. Estimation 40,000 — 60,000 USD

Accompanied by GIA report no. 1142712150 stating that the diamond is J color, SI1 clarity.

In most cultures, jewels have not only been considered visible symbols of wealth and the ultimate in personal adornment, but have also been imbued with special powers, worn as talismans to ward off bad luck. Similar in shape to that of amulets worn in India regardless of caste, creed or region, the 18th Century diamond gourd-shaped beads covered with tiny facets are known as 'taveez or amulet-shaped. In Mughal India, multi-strand necklaces would be composed of such beads. Taveez drops often formed a fringe suspended from rows of pearls forming elaborate turban ornaments. Here, a taveez diamond bead is incorporated in an Art Deco Cartier design dated circa 1925. 

For additional information see Jewels of the Nizams by Usha R. Bala Krishnan.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels.New York | 11 déc. 2013 - www.sothebys.com