Gold, platinum, citrine, ruby, diamond and sapphire clip-brooch. Photo Sotheby's.

The polished gold hand with five drop-shaped cabochon ruby fingernails holding an emerald-cut citrine weighing approximately 100.00 carats, the lace cuff set with round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately .50 carat, accented by 15 calibré-cut sapphires; circa 1940. Estimation 20,000 — 30,000 USD

This brooch is reminiscent of the designs created during the partnership between Paul Flato and Fulco di Verdura. Often taking the form of amusing designs Flato called “whimsies,” both men shared a deep appreciation for jewels whose designs were bold and unconventional. Centering a citrine weighing approximately 100.00 carats, this design epitomizes the “big is beautiful” jewelry mentality of the late 1930s; in addition, the attention to detail calls to mind similar jewels by Flato which feature ruby-manicured fingernails and delicately adorned cuffs.

For additional information, please see Paul Flato: Jeweler to the Stars by Elizabeth Irvine Bray, pages 32 and 61-71. Also see Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler by Patricia Corbett, pages 82-109.

Sotheby's. Important Jewels. New York | 06 Feb 2014 - www.sothebys.com