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Art Deco Diamond, Emerald and Pearl Sautoir by Cartier and Mauboussin. Photo courtesy Macklowe Gallery.

A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and natural pearl sautoir signed “Cartier Paris” with an emerald and diamond pendant marked “Mauboussin”. The overall length is 37” and has a removable section that enables it to be worn at a length of 33”. The seed pearl sautoir was made by Cartier for a French family around 1910. The necklace has 340 old European-cut and 16 rose-cut diamonds that have an approximate total weight of 7.65 carats. In the late 1920’s the sautoir was brought to Mauboussin to combine it with the Mauboussin diamond and emerald pendant. The Mauboussin pendant contains 82 old European-cut and 11 baguette-cut diamonds having a total approximate weight of 7.90 carats. It features 1 square-cut Columbian emerald that has an approximate weight of 2.15 carats, 2 pear-cut Columbian emeralds that have the approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, and a pear-shaped drop Columbian emerald that has an approximate weight of 4.30 carats. This piece comes with a certificate of authenticity from Marguerite de Cerval, a conservator from the Mauboussin Archive.

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Suzanne Belperron ‘Ying-Yang’ Ring with Vivid Yellow Diamond, circa 1923. Photo courtesy Macklowe Gallery.

Suzanne Belperron was one of the most talented and influential jewelry designers of the last century. First employed by Germaine Boivin, she contributed enormously to the successes the Maison René Boivin achieved until the early 1930’s. In 1932, she left Boivin and with the support of Bernard Herz designed and produced jewelry under her own name. Her jewelry was so original that she never signed her pieces, instead insisting that ‘my style is my signature’. This ring is fashioned after her own engagement ring, entitled “Yin and Yang”. While hers featured an old mine cut diamond, our ring is graced by a highly rare 4.46 carat “Fancy Vivid Yellow Flawless” oval brilliant-cut diamond. Designed C. 1923. A similar ring is pictured in “Suzanne Belperron”, by Sylvie Raulet, Olivier Baroin, Antique Collectors’ Club, 2011, page pages 33, 215.

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Opal, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Brooch-Pendant by Marcus & Co. Circa 1900. Photo courtesy Macklowe Gallery.

An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and platinum brooch/pendant with opal, diamonds and enamel by Marcus & Co. The brooch/pendant has a center cabochon black opal and 76 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats. The center opal is mounted in a scrolled setting and framed with enamel and diamonds, suspending a matched scroll set opal.

Provenance: The Gould Family.

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Exceptional Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bracelet, circa 1925. Photo courtesy Macklowe Gallery.

Art Deco designers sought a definitive rupture from the naturalistic style of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian periods. They used geometric forms and an architectural sense of composition, with elevations and repeated motifs, and an all-white palate with different cuts of diamonds taking the place of colored stones to create contrast, depth and dimensionality. This is the birth of abstraction in jewelry. This plaque bracelet features 3 old European-cut diamonds, one in each center section with an approximate total weight of 6.75 carats surrounded by 306 round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 37.00 carats, and 126 rectangular baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats. The diamond are VS-SI clarity and H-I color grade.

Similar bracelets are pictured in “Art Deco Jewelry”, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, page 84 etc.

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Gold and Diamond Ear Pendants by Verger, circa 1980s. Photo courtesy Macklowe Gallery.

A pair of French Estate 18 karat gold ear pendants with diamonds by Verger. The earrings have 83 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 14.00 carats. The earrings are composed of a double entwined pear-shaped diamond formed top from which hang larger detachable pear shaped diamond pendants.

Available at Macklowe Gallery. 60th Annual Winter Antiques Show. Park Avenue Armory. New York. January 24-February 2, 2014