An Enamel and Gem-set Bracelet by Carlo Giuliano, English, circa 1860-1863. Photo courtesy Wartski

A graduated gold bracelet centred by an enamel lozenge decorated with a raised gold cupid in front of a turquoise blue background with hand painted foliate design, the enamel highlighted with rose cut diamonds, the lozenge framed by a black champlevé enamel and pearl border. A glazed compartment is located behind the central plaque. Signed ‘C.G.’ to the clasp and behind the enamel plaque.

The cupid is positioned as if he were pulling back his bow in order to realise an arrow to ensnare the hearts of two lovers. Interestingly, the arrow is not rendered in the design, perhaps suggesting the intangible nature of love. The turquoise blue enamel is symbolic, as it mirrors the colour of the Forget-me-Not flower. Diamonds, in the lore of the lapidary are emblematic of an eternal love which is unbreakable and forever pure, whilst pearls are an attribute of Venus.

An enamelled and jewelled cherry blossom brooch by Carl Fabergé, Fabergé Moscow, pre 1896. Photo courtesy Wartski

Enamelled translucent mauve over a sunburst ground and mounted with diamond set cherry blossom, within a yellow gold rocaille border further highlighted with diamonds, inventory number 14039.

A diamond serpent necklace, Paris, circa 1919. Photo courtesy Wartski

In the form of a snake, the platinum body finely set with old brilliant cut diamonds in a bombé scale pattern, its body entwined to form the neck.

Attributed to the Lavabre workshop. Lavabre supplied Cartier Paris with diamond set jewels and a necklace of identical design made by Lavabre for Cartier is held in the Cartier Collection.

See Cartier 1900-1939, Judy , British Museum Press, 1997, number 201.

A platinum and gem-set brooch in the form of hovering mayflies by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, c.1925.. Photo courtesy Wartski

Their wings represented with diamonds calibré-cut specifically for each individual openwork mount, their bodies set with emeralds and onyx respectively.

The business established in Paris in 1906 by Alfred Van Cleef (1873-1938) and his two cousins Charles (1880-1951) and Julien Arpels (1884-1964), later joined by their brother Louis (1886-1976), specialised in exquisitely made gem-set pieces. Van Cleef and Arpels created a number of jewels in the form of insects in which the celebrated technique of invisible settings the firm later patented in 1933 enabled it to perfect its interpretation in diamonds of the translucency and shimmer of wings.

An aquamarine and diamond-set pendant by Fabergé, St. Petersburg, circa 1900. Photo courtesy Wartski

Formed of three diamond-set interlocking circles, through which the fine platinum chain is passed, suspending two faceted aquamarine drops, each from a diamond-set circle motif.

Available at Wartski. 60th Annual Winter Antiques Show. Park Avenue Armory. New York. January 24-February 2, 2014