A diamond and sapphire "zip" necklace. by Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: $250,000 – 350,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2014.

NEW YORK, NY.- On June 10, having already achieved US$320 million in spring jewelry auction sales across Christie’s global salerooms, Christie’s New York will offer a beautiful array of over 220 Important Jewels expected to achieve in excess of $20 million. The day-long auction features rare colored and colorless diamonds, natural pearls and a significant selection of signed jewels by René Boivin, Boucheron, BVLGARI, Cartier, Sterlé, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, among others. 

Highlights include the iconic Van Cleef & Arpels diamond and sapphire “zip” necklace (estimate: $250,000 – 350,000), a D-color rectangular-cut diamond ring, by Taffin (estimate: $2,400,000 – 3,200,000), and a spectacular long-chain necklace with over 100 carats of diamonds, by Leviev (estimate: $700,000 – 1,000,000). The selection of colored diamonds is led by a very rare oval-cut fancy vivid pink diamond of 5.50 carats, estimated at $6,500,000 – 7,500,000 and a superb rectangular-cut fancy intense greenish blue diamond of 5.02 carats with a pre-sale estimate of $1,000,000 – 1,500,000. 

Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie’s Jewelry, notes: “Our summer jewelry auction on June 10 presents a beautiful and stylish selection of wearable jewelry that speaks to the taste of every collector. The sale will include two esteemed private collections, the Collection of Kathleen and Martin Field and the Estate of Edgar M. Bronfman, in addition to important diamonds, fine vintage creations from the best houses, and rare natural pearls ensuring that our collectors continue to enjoy being part of a vibrant auction market, both as sellers and buyers of rare jewels. 


In the mid-1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli was credited with introducing the zipper in haute couture collections. Taking what was traditionally used as a functional tool, Schiaparelli used bright colors and clever placement to make the zipper an integral part of design. Inspired by Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor commissioned Van Cleef & Arpels’ chief designer Reneé Puissant to create a necklace based on the zip fastener. After many years of experimental design, the Zip Necklace was presented to universal acclaim in 1953. The necklace was an engineering marvel, set with round and baguette-cut diamonds and mounted in platinum. In the following years, several variations of the Zip Necklace were created with the use of a variety of gemstones, mounted in gold or platinum. The present necklace, offered on June 10 at Christie’s New York with a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 – 350,000, was designed for a special Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry Collection and it impeccably represents the famed legacy of this iconic jewel. 


A diamond and sapphire "zip" necklace. by Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: $250,000 – 350,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2014.

Designed as a circular-cut diamond zipper, to the calibré-cut sapphire sliding ribbon, mounted in 18k white gold, maximum circumference 30 ins. (length adjustable), with French assay mark and maker's mark, in a Van Cleef & Arpels green silk case. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. ML 6612. 

Literature: Cf. Marc Petit, Van Cleef & Arpels, Reflections of Eternity, 2006, plate 211 http://www.christies.com/

CARTIER & AQUAMARINES Since the 1930s, aquamarines have played an important role in the designs of Cartier. At their best, aquamarines display a fresh light blue which, when paired with diamonds, creates a chic and subtle, yet bold, combination. This collection (Lots 187-189) has been in private hands for decades and it is definitive of the refined use of aquamarines and diamonds for which Cartier is so well known. The inclusion of such significant pieces in one sale represents a rare opportunity for a collector to acquire such sought after Cartier jewels. 


An aquamarine and diamond ring, by Cartier, circa 1950. Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2014.

Set with a rectangular-cut aquamarine, within an oval and square-cut aquamarine surround, trimmed with single-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, Signed Cartier, Paris no. L5135 

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An art déco aquamarine and diamond bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1950. Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2014.

 Designed as a series of oval-cut aquamarine plaques, joined by circular-cut diamond links, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, 6¾ ins., with French assay mark? Signed Cartier, Paris, no. 05053 


An art déco aquamarine and diamond pendants by Cartier, circa 1950. Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2014.

Each of chandelier design, suspending a fringe of hexagonal-cut aquamarines, from the rectangular-cut aquamarine and single-cut diamond openwork plaque, to the old European-cut diamond and oval-cut aquamarine surmount, mounted in platinum, circa 1930. Signed Cartier, London, no. 9183 


Born and raised in New York City, Kathleen P. Field rose to become an influential figure on the Main Line Philadelphia social scene and a patron of the arts. In 1974, she married Martin W. Field, a prominent Philadelphia real estate developer. Together with their joint passion for decorative arts, the couple made many collecting trips to Paris, where they began acquiring rare and exquisite examples of important jewelry. On April 16, 2014, Christie’s offered the first part of the Field collection, which was 100% sold and achieved in excess of $6 million. On June 10, the remaining collection of more than forty jewels will be offered including highlights such as a ruby bead and diamond sautoir, by M. Gérard, estimated at $120,000 – 180,000.


A ruby bead and diamond sautoir, by M. Gérard. Estimate: $120,000 – $180,000. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2014.

Suspending a detachable ruby bead tassel with a circular-cut diamond cap, from an openwork circular-cut diamond plaque centering upon an oval cabochon ruby, to the multi-strand ruby bead neckchain, intersected by circular-cut diamond links and joined by a clasp of similar design, mounted in 18k gold, 27½ ins, with detachable segments and may be worn as a shorter necklace of 21 ins. or 15¾ ins. and a bracelet of 6¼ ins. Signed Gérard for M. Gérard 

Provenance: Formerly the Property of Florence J. Gould
Previously sold at Christie's New York, 11 April 1984, Lot 459