Lot 432. Gem set and diamond fibula brooch, JAR, 1994. Estimate 146,000 — 245,000 CHF (137,736 - 231,132 EUR). Lot sold 262,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's.
Set with an oval natural pearl suspending three smaller pearls of various colours together with a button shaped brownish grey natural pearl, and a pear-shaped purple topaz, the 'keeper' set with a briolette pink spinel and an oval brownish grey natural pearl, accented throughout with single-cut diamonds, the reverse decorated with inverted brilliant-cut diamonds, unsigned, French assay and maker's marks, case by JAR.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 79214, stating that the six pearls were found to be natural, saltwater, with no indications of artificial colour modification.
Literature: Cf: Joel Rosenthal, JAR, vol. 1, Paris, 2013, fig. 358 for an image of this jewel.
Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, Geneva, 12 May 2015, 10:30 AM