Emerald, ruby and diamond brooch, late 19th century. Estimate £20,000–30,000/ €28,100–42,100/ US$ 29,000–44,900. Photo Sotheby's.

LONDON.- On 11 June 2015, Sotheby’s London sale of Fine Jewels will offer a wide variety of stunning jewels from the 17th century to the present. Renowned designers have often turned to the beautiful forms of nature for inspiration and this auction features stand-out designs from those such as René Lalique, Mauboussin, Ernst Paltscho and Vacheron Constantin, as well as pieces from great houses such as Cartier and Graff. This season, for the first time ever, visitors to Sotheby’s pre-sale exhibition can enjoy a special tea and refreshments among the jewels provided by Sketch. 

JEWELS IN FULL BLOOM 
Floral motifs have always been popular with jewellers for their intricate forms and bold colours. Vacheron Constantin, known for its exceptional watches, is represented here by a yellow diamond brooch and striking pair of earrings each designed as a pair of flowers ave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow and near colourless tint (Lot 116, est. £8,000– 12,000/ €11,300–16,900/ US$ 12,000-18,000). 

Pair of diamond earrings and brooch, Vacheron Constantin. Estimate £8,000– 12,000/ €11,300–16,900/ US$ 12,000-18,000. Photo Sotheby's.

Each designed as a pair of flowers, pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow and near colourless tint,earrings with post and hinged back fittings, each with maker's marks for Vacheron Constantin, accompanied by pouches stamped Vacheron Constantin.

Floral brooches are distinguished in the sale with their delicate designs, for instance a pair of gem set and diamond brooches, circa 1960, depicted as a beautiful spray of wild roses and lily of the valley (Lot 91, est. £5,000-7,000 / €7,100-9,900/ US$ 7,500-10,500), and a sapphire and diamond brooch set with pear- and shield-shaped sapphires, circular- and single-cut diamonds (Lot 191, est. £8,000–12,000/ €11,300–6,900/ US$ 12,000–18,000). 

Pair of gem set and diamond brooches, circa 1960. Estimate £5,000-7,000 / €7,100-9,900/ US$ 7,500-10,500. Photo Sotheby's.

Comprising: a brooch designed as a spray of wild roses, set with carved nephrite and rose quartz, each flower head set with a cultured pearl and brilliant-cut diamonds; and a brooch designed as a spray of lily of the valley, set with carved nephrite and rock crystal, the flower heads suspending brilliant-cut diamonds.

Sapphire and diamond brooch. Estimate £8,000–12,000/ €11,300–6,900/ US$ 12,000–18,000. Photo Sotheby's.

Of floral design, set with pear- and shield-shaped sapphires, circular- and single-cut diamonds, the stamen set with similarly cut diamonds of yellow and brown tint, numbered.

ART NOUVEAU & ART DECO PIECES 
Art Nouveau jewellery is spearheaded by René Lalique designs from the early 20th century, such as a gold and plique-à-jour enamel chain of floral motifs (Lot 247 est. £15,000–20,000/ €21,000–28,1000/ US$ 22,500-29,900), and a gold and enamel jewel bracelet. Adorned with scarab beetles and foliate motifs, this enchanting bracelet was given as a gift from René Lalique to his daughter Suzanne Lalique (Lot 248, est. £22,000–32,000/ €30,900–44,900/ US$ 32,900-47,900). 

Gold and plique-à-jour enamel chain, Lalique, early 20th century. Estimate £15,000–20,000/ €21,000–28,1000/ US$ 22,500-29,900. Photo Sotheby's.

The plaques designed with floral motifs applied in enamel and plique-à-jour enamel, signed Lalique, length approximately 420mm.

Gold and enamel jewel, René Lalique, early 20th century composite. Estimate £22,000–32,000/ €30,900–44,900/ US$ 32,900-47,900. Photo Sotheby's.

The central articulated panel designed as a series of scarab beetle and foliate motifs set with plique-à-jourenamel, signed Lalique, to a series of fancy links of floral design, length approximately 190mm. 

Provenance: This bracelet was given as a gift from René Lalique to his daughter Suzanne Lalique, who then gave it as a wedding present to the current owner's mother.

Art Deco jewels from the 1930s are showcased by an exquisite hardstone, enamel and diamond bracelet, attributed to Ernst Paltscho (Lot 283, est. £15,000–20,000/ €21,100–28,100/ US$ 22,500–29,900). It was made at the time that Ernst Paltscho became famous for colourful carved hardstone jewels. 

Hardstone enamel and diamond bracelet, attributed to Ernst Paltscho, 1930s. Estimate £15,000–20,000/ €21,100–28,100/ US$ 22,500–29,900. Photo Sotheby's.

Designed as four blue enamel square plaques, each applied with a motif of carved hardstone flowers, accented with single-cut diamonds, framed with millegrain-set lines of circular-cut diamonds, linked by carved open work onyx links and millegrain-set diamond batons, length approximately 185mm, unsigned, fitted case stamped Jul Hugle. 

Literature: Cf: C. Gere, "The Art of The Jeweller, A Catalogue of The Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum", Vol. I, p. 190, no 1178 and Vol. II, p. 319, no. 1178 and color plate 63, for examples of carved hardstone jewellery by Ernst Paltscho.
Cf: S. Tennenbaum and J Zapata, The Jeweled Garden, London, 2006, p. 83 for an illustration of a similar floral hardstone bracelet by Ernst Paltscho.

Note: Ernst Paltscho (1858-1929) founded the firm in 1899 in Vienna, Austria. Commissioned by the Greek Royal House, he was also patronized by many of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy. His son Erwin joined the firm in 1918, and continued the business after his father's death. During the 1930s they became famous for their colourful carved hardstone jewels. 

Cartier has long been at the forefront of some of the most important jewellery design trends of the 20th century and features strongly in the sale. Testament to the geometric design of the jeweller’s Art Deco period is a wonderful 1930s citrine and diamond brooch and ring (Lot 103, est. £14,000–18,000/ €19,700–25,300/ US$ 21,000–27,000). 

Citrine and diamond brooch and ring, Cartier, 1930s. Estimate £14,000–18,000/ €19,700–25,300/ US$ 21,000–27,000. Photo Sotheby's.

The brooch of palmette design, set with step-cut and pear-shaped citrines of varying tones, accented with circular-cut diamonds, signed Cartier, maker's mark, one citrine deficient, fitted case stamped Cartier; the ring set with a step-cut citrine, size O, signed Cartier. 

Literature: Cf: Judy Rudoe, 'Cartier 1900-1939', page 283 for an example of a similar citrine brooch from 1930s.

ANTIQUE JEWELLERY 
The beauty and elegance of antique jewels is displayed through a wide range of pieces from the 19th century. Taking centre stage is the cover lot – a stunning Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Brooch from the late 19th century, of ribbon bow design with a detachable emerald drop, encircled by a serpent set with rose diamonds and cabochon ruby eyes (Lot 210, est. £20,000–30,000/ €28,100–42,100/ US$ 29,000–44,900). 

Emerald, ruby and diamond brooch, late 19th century. Estimate £20,000–30,000/ €28,100–42,100/ US$ 29,000–44,900. Photo Sotheby's.

Of ribbon bow design, the centre set with a step-cut emerald within a border of cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, surrounded by similarly set ribbon motifs, suspending a detachable emerald drop, encircled by a serpent set with rose diamonds and cabochon ruby eyes, French assay marks, later fitted case.  

An impressive jewel from the late 19th century which also boasts aristocratic provenance is a diamond brooch portrayed as an eagle from The Estate of the late Marquess of Anglesey. Four similarly designed eagles are depicted on the Anglesey Coat of Arms (Lot 40, est. £10,000–15,000/ €14,100–21,100/ US$ 15,000–22,500). 

The Estate of the late Marquess of Anglesey. Diamond brooch, late 19th century. Estimate £10,000–15,000/ €14,100–21,100/ US$ 15,000–22,500. Photo Sotheby's.

Designed as an eagle, set with circular-cut diamonds with a ruby eye, one diamond deficient, detachable brooch pin, fitted case by Carrington & Co, 130 Regent Street, applied with the crowned monogram for the Marquis of Anglesey.

Literature: Cf: Peter Townend, "Burke's Peerage, Baronetage and Knightage", London 1967, pages 72 to 78.

Natural pearls have been star performers at auction recently and this sale offers a late 19th century natural pearl and diamond pendant, which comprises of a wonderful natural pearl drop to a rose diamond surmount (Lot 199, est. £10,000–15,000/ €14,100–21,100/ US$ 15,000– 22,500). 

Natural pearl and diamond pendant, late 19th century. Estimate £10,000–15,000/ €14,100–21,100/ US$ 15,000–22,500. Photo Sotheby's.

Of target design, set with a natural pearl, surrounded by circular-cut and rose diamonds, suspending a natural pearl drop to a rose diamond surmount, detachable suspension loop, fitted case.

Accompanied by The Gem & Pearl Laboratory report no. 11203, stating that the two pearls were found to be natural, saltwater.

DIAMONDS 
A diamond ring weighing 6.50 carats, of exceptional colour and clarity (E, V52) is a highlight within an impressive selection of beautiful diamonds (Lot 398, est. £120,000–180,000/ €169,000–253,000/ US$ 180,000-270,000). 

6.50 carats E Colour, VS2 Clarity cushion-shaped diamond ring. Estimate £120,000–180,000/ €169,000–253,000/ US$ 180,000-270,000. Photo Sotheby's.

Claw-set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 6.50 carats, size M. 

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2145758193, stating that the diamond is E Colour, VS2 Clarity.

Among a group of fancy coloured diamonds is a fancy deep brownish yellow diamond and diamond ring weighing 4.21 carats (Lot 126, Est. £20,000-30,000/ €28,100-42,100/ US$ 29,900-44,900), and a pair of fancy coloured diamond earrings, the brilliant-cut fancy orange brown diamonds weighing 3.12 and 3.20 carats respectively (Lot 111, est. £28,000–38,000/ €39,300–53,500/ US$ 41,900–57,000). 

4.21 carats Fancy Deep Brownish Yellow diamond and diamond ring. Estimate £20,000-30,000/ €28,100-42,100/ US$ 29,900-44,900. Photo Sotheby's.

Claw-set with a fancy deep brownish yellow diamond weighing 4.21 carats, to a mount accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, size M.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2176854060, stating that the diamond is Fancy Deep Brownish Yellow Colour, SI1 Clarity. 

Pair of fancy coloured diamond earrings. Estimate £28,000–38,000/ €39,300–53,500/ US$ 41,900–57,000. Photo Sotheby's.

Each claw-set with a brilliant-cut fancy orange brown diamond, weighing 3.12 and 3.20 carats respectively, suspending square fancy light yellow and fancy intense yellow diamonds weighing 0.98 and 0.96 carats respectively, post and butterfly fittings.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 5141480636 and 1142481287, stating that the diamonds are Fancy Orange-Brown, natural colour, VS1 and I1 Clarity and report no. 2145480711 and 5141480595, stating that the diamonds are Fancy Light Yellow and Fancy Intense Yellow, natural colour, VS2 and SI1 Clarity respectively.

SIGNED JEWELS 
Modern, signed jewels are well-represented with examples from famous houses such as De Beers and Graff. From Graff, the sale features a pair of diamond ear clips set with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 3.27 and 3.21 carats (Lot 399, est. £50,000–70,000/ €70,500–98,500/ US$ 75,000-105,000). From De Beers there are several jewels including a Diamond parure consisting of a bracelet and a pair of ear clips each designed as flower motifs (Lot 121, est. £8,000–12,000/ €11,300–19,900/ US$ 12,000–18,000). 

Pair of 3.27 and 3.21 carats diamond ear clips, Graff. Estimate £28,000–38,000/ €39,300–53,500/ US$ 41,900–57,000. Photo Sotheby's.

Each centring on a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 3.27 and 3.21 carats respectively, to a brilliant-cut diamond surmount, signed Graff, numbered.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 11064966 and no. 11064965, stating the diamonds are H Colour, VS1 Clarity and G Colour, VS1 Clarity respectively.

Diamond demi-parure, De Beers. Estimate £8,000–12,000/ €11,300–19,900/ US$ 12,000–18,000. Photo Sotheby's.

Comprising: a bracelet composed of two rows of articulated and rotating flower heads set with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 180mm; a pair of ear clips similarly set, each signed De Beers, numbered, maker's marks and British hallmarks.

‘STUART CRYSTAL’ AND ‘MOMENTO MORI’ JEWELS 
Evocative of Royalist fashion during the tumultuous era of the Stuarts is an impressive private collection of very delicate, late 17th and early 18th-century ‘Stuart Crystal’ and ‘Momento Mori’ mourning jewels. Emblazoned with skulls, skeletons and coffins, these jewels were widely worn to remind owners of their mortality (Lots 212, 216, 215). They gained in popularity at the same time as the proliferation of Royalist ‘Stuart’ jewels, which were secretly sported by Royalists concealing portraits of Charles I after the regicide of the King in 1649. With an estimate of £1,000–1,500 (€1,450–2,150/ US$ 1,500–2,250), lot 212 is a Gold ‘Stuart Crystal’ mourning slide from the 1690s depicting a skeleton resting on a tomb.

Gold "Stuart crystal" mourning slide, 1690s. Estimate (€1,450–2,150/ US$ 1,500–2,250). Photo Sotheby's.

The oval slide containing a lock of hair applied with a skeleton resting on a tomb inscribed "Mem.Io.Mori"above the initials PC, beneath a facetted rock crystal cover, with loop attachments to the reverse.