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Alain.R.Truong
10 juin 2015

Diamonds & designers: Dreweatts announces Fine Jewellery Auction

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A sapphire and diamond collar. Estimate £25,000-35,000. Photo Dreweatts

DONNINGTON PRIORY.- The Fine Jewellery auction at Dreweatts, Donnington Priory on Thursday 9th July has been carefully curated from private collections across Europe. Spanning nearly 2000 years of jewellery design and history, the sale features sparkling, enviable stones, with a comprehensive collection of designer pieces from Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. 

The crowning glory of the sale are two beautiful rings, a 7.82 carat Colombian emerald and diamond ring [Lot 544, est. £30,000-50,000] and a 4.73 carat step diamond mounted ring by Van Cleef & Arpels [Lot 542, est. £50,000-80,000]. 

A 7

A 7.82 carat Colombian emerald and diamond ring. Estimate £30,000-50,000Photo Dreweatts

the rectangular shaped emerald, weighing 7.82 carats, claw set between two triangular shaped diamonds, approximately 1.50 carats total, on a polished shank, finger size M

Offered for sale with a Gubelin Gem Lab Gemstone Report, number 15050217, dated 27th May 2015, stating: Origin: Characterists consistent with emeralds originating from Colombia. Condition: Indications of minor clarity enhancement 

A single stone diamond ring by Van Cleef and Arpels

A single stone 4.73 carats diamond ring by Van Cleef and Arpels. Estimate £50,000–80,000.  Photo Dreweatts

the step cut diamond with canted corners weighing 4.73 carats, four claw set above tapered baguette cut diamond shoulders, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered M38644, L 1/2. 

Offered for sale with a photocopy of an Insurance Valuation from Van Clef & Arpels, dated September 5th 2003
Offered for sale with a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) diamond report, no. 5172187457, dated 3rd June 2015, stating: Colour E. Clarity VS1

Also from Van Cleef & Arpels are a pair of 1970s diamond clip earrings that were purchased by the current owner from Van Cleef & Arpels in Monaco, the pair are estimated to achieve £8,000-12,000 [Lot 540] and for buyers with more taste is a mother of pearl Alhambra necklace and ear clips, also by Van Cleef & Arpels estimated at £3,500-4,500 [Lot 537] 

A pair of diamond earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels

A pair of diamond earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate £8,000-12,000. Photo Dreweatts

designed as a foliate spray, set throughout with brilliant cut diamonds, approximately 7.20 carats total, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, stamped with French poincon, with clip fittings, 2.8cm long

An Alhambra mother of pearl necklace and ear clips by Van Cleef

An Alhambra mother of pearl necklace and ear clips by Van Cleef. Estimate £3,500-4,500. Photo Dreweatts

the quatrefoil mother of pearl panels within a beaded surround, one stamped VCA and numbered BL152582, with facetted belcher link chain connectors between, the clasp with French poincon, 80cm long; the matching stud ear clips signed VCA and numbered JB107743; both items have Authenticity certificates, in a Van Cleef & Arpels case

The ever desirable haute jewellery atelier Bulgari is well represented in the auction with 12 lots; prices start at £500 for a pair of B.Zero 1 hooped earrings [Lot 513] to £6,000 for an exceptional and rare suite set with diamonds and shagreen [Lot 522]. 

A shagreen and diamond collar by Bulgari

A shagreen and diamond collar by Bulgari. Estimate £4,000-6,000Photo Dreweatts

the central circular shaped pendant set with brilliant cut diamonds with an inner disc set with further brilliant cut diamonds , approximately 0.95 carats total, suspended from a shagreen strap, signed Bulgari, stamped 750 with Italian control marks, 38cm long; together with a matching bracelet, the central circular pendant set with brilliant cut diamonds, approximately 0.85 carats total, signed Bulgari, stamped 750 with Italian control marks, 21cm long, in a black leather Bulgari pouch with outer box 

The post war period is extremely well represented with a rare early piece from Graff dated 1974 [Lot 381, est. £4,000-6,000]; a fabulous 1960's owl brooch from Cartier London [Lot 416, est. £8,000-12,000]; a 12 carat sapphire and diamond ring from Mario Buccellati [Lot 420, est. £8,000-12,000] and two scarab set dress rings from the Roman jeweller Masenza by Franco Cannilla [Lot 438, £1,200-1,800]; a gold and ivory competition piece from Gubelin [Lot 421, est. £3,000-5,000] and 1980s jewellery design from Hong Kong by the leading Hong Kong designer Trio [Lots 439, est. £1,500-2,000 and 440, est. £700-1,000]. 

A 1970's gem set Inca figure brooch by Graff

A 1970's gem set Inca figure brooch by Graff. Estimate £4,000-6,000Photo Dreweatts

the figure with a fringed skirt and a sapphire, diamond and ruby set head dress, holding a cabochon ruby, with diamond accented necklace, and cabochon sapphire knees, signed Graff, and stamped 18ct, London import mark 1974, 6.2cm long 

A gem set owl brooch by Cartier, circa 1960

A gem set owl brooch by Cartier, circa 1960. Estimate £8,000-12,000Photo Dreweatts

with a mixed cut citrine set body, and emerald and diamond accented eyes, with engraved feather decoration, sitting on a diamond accented branch, signed Cartier London, 5.7cm long

A 1960s sapphire and diamond ring by Mario Buccellati

A 1960s 12.06 carats Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring by Mario Buccellati. Estimate £8,000-12,000. Photo Dreweatts 

the oval mixed cut sapphire, weighing 12.06 carats, claw set within a scalloped surround set with brilliant cut diamonds, approximately 1.30 carats total, with a border of foliate and scroll engraved decoration, on a textured brush finish shank, signed M.Buccellati, stamped 750 with Italian control marks, finger size M 1/2

Offered for sale with a Gubelin Gem Lab Gemstone Report, number 15050216, dated 27th May 2015, stating: Origin: Characterists consistent with sapphires originating from Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Condition: No indications of heating (NTE)

Two scarab set dress rings by Franco Cannilla for Masenza

 

Two scarab set dress rings by Franco Cannilla for Masenza. Estimate £1,200-1,800. Photo Dreweatts

each ring set with a blue glazed scarab beetle in a pierced raised textured setting, both rings signed Cannilla, Masenza Roma, one ring has a split shank, finger size K; the second ring finger size H 1/2 

A gold and ivory necklace by Gubelin, circa 1972

 

A gold and ivory necklace by Gubelin, circa 1972. Estimate £3,000-5,000. Photo Dreweatts

composed of interlocking abstract gold colour and ivory pierced geometric links, 4.7cm wide, to a hidden clasp, stamped 750 with the Gubelin makers mark, 38cm long, 244g gross, with original blue Gubelin case

Offered for sale with a CITIES certificate A10 No. 533944, and a letter from Gubelin, ref. 42C-0233, dated January 2015, stating; Year of manufacture: 1972. Origin of ivory: Germany/ Friedrich Kolletsky KG

The ivory necklace belongs to a set with bracelet, brooch, earrings and a ring which were made for an ivory design contest in 1972. Kolletsky KG of Erbach, Germany still exists and had been Gubelin's ivory supplier for many years.

A coral and turquoise necklace by Trio

 

 

A coral and turquoise necklace by Trio. Estimate £1,500-2,000. Photo Dreweatts

the necklace composed of polished pierced square links interspaced with alternating coral beads and vari shaped turquoise panels, the box clasp signed Trio and stamped 14k, 48cm long, with a coral bead and oval shaped turquoise panel drop, 10cm long

A lapis lazuli, turquoise and diamond set dress ring by Trio

A lapis lazuli, turquoise and diamond set dress ring by Trio. Estimate £700-1,000. Photo Dreweatts

the central cabochon lapis lazuli claw set above a round cabochon turquoise and brilliant cut diamond bombe setting, the reeded shank signed Trio and stamped 18k, finger size L.

The sale also features a comprehensive selection of fine antique, period and estate jewellery with pieces from the late 17th century to the early 20th century, including the most sought after names in jewellery history - Carlo and Arthur Giuliano [Lot 333, est. £8,000-12,000] and Alessandro Castellani [Lot 334, £2,000-3,000].

A late Victorian gold, enamel and gem set bracelet by Carlo and Arthur Giuliano, circa 1900

 

A late Victorian gold, enamel and gem set bracelet by Carlo and Arthur Giuliano, circa 1900Estimate £8,000-12,000. Photo Dreweatts

the pierced circular panels each centred with a round cut ruby and a pearl to the cardinal points, decorated with red, green, blue and pale pink enamel, with peridot set links between, stamped C & AG, 18.5cm long, in Warski box with description.

A mid 19th Century Archaeological Revival brooch by Alessandro Castellani, circa 1870

A mid 19th Century Archaeological Revival brooch by Alessandro Castellani, circa 1870Estimate £2,000-3,000. Photo Dreweatts

the brooch with a textured rams head swallowing its tail in the form of an Ouroboros, with ropetwist and granulation decoration, marked with the Castellani makers mark, 4.2cm long, 26g.

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