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3 septembre 2015

A diamond 'Torsade' bangle, by Suzanne Belperron, circa 1932

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A diamond 'Torsade' bangle, by Suzanne Belperron, circa 1932. Estimate £40,000 - 60,000 (54,000 - 82,000). Photo: Bonhams.

The 'gadrooned' cuff of alternating pavé-set old brilliant-cut diamond and polished platinum sections, diamonds approximately 20.70 carats total, French assay mark, inner diameter 6.5cm

NotesAccompanied by a certificate from Belperron LLC stating that the bangle was manufactured in Paris from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Certificate number B49807272015, dated 27 July 2015.

Suzanne Belperron is one of the most celebrated female jewellery designers of the twentieth century. Born in 1900 in Saint-Claude, France, Belperron began working for the eminent Parisian jewellery firm Societe Rene Boivin under the guidance of the founder's widow, Jeanne. Although Suzanne created some of the firm's most outstanding jewels, she became increasingly frustrated with Jeanne's refusal to credit her as the designer. Belperron left Boivin in 1932 and established her own company with the support of her friend Bernard Herz.

The three dimensional curves of many of Belperron's designs made her jewels stand out in comparison to the starker geometric motifs used in contemporary Art Deco jewellery. Made in circa 1932, this bangle is a rare example of Belperron's earliest independent work and demonstrative of the famous answer to the question of why she never directly signed her jewels by name - 'Mon style est ma signature' ('My style is my signature'). 

For similar examples of 'Torsade' bangles by Belperron, see Raulet, S. and Baroin, O., 'Suzanne Belperron', Antiques Collectors Club, Citta di Castello, 2011, pages 64-65 and 208.

Bonham's. FINE JEWELLERY, 24 Sep 2015 12:00 BST - LONDON, NEW BOND STREET

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