An exceptional Art Deco enamel, gem-set and diamond 'Tutti Frutti' bracelet, by Cartier, New York, 1929. Estimate £350,000 - 550,000 (€480,000 - 750,000). Photo: Bonhams.
The highly articulated geometric strap, with carved emerald and ruby and black enamel vine motifs, against an old brilliant and single-cut diamond ground, mounted in platinum, diamonds approximately 10.00 carats total, signed Cartier, length 18.4cm
Notes: Cartier's Indian-inspired "Tutti Frutti" jewels are some of the firm's most celebrated designs and this bracelet is a fine example of the genre. Cartier first started experimenting with Indian-inspired jewels as early as 1901 when they made a necklace for Queen Alexandra. In 1911, Jacques Cartier visited India, then the jewel in England's colonial crown, where he was exposed to traditional Indian jewels that were rich in colour and set with carved gemstones.
Thus Cartier began to move away from the austere geometry of the early Art Deco period and to incorporate antique, Mughal gemstones and sinuous motifs into their contemporary designs, which displayed vibrant juxtapositions of colour and texture. Their first "Tutti Frutti" example to be shown publicly was a bracelet at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris in 1925, but "Tutti Frutti" creations flourished throughout the 1930s.
This bracelet, a rare precursor to the full-blown style, displays a refined economy of design. Whilst it bears the distinctive vine pattern and characteristic coloured 'fruit' and black enamel contouring, the bracelet is unusual in its considered combination of colours and the clean lines of its graphic arrangement. It is at once a most striking and elegant jewel.
Bonhams. FINE JEWELLERY, 24 Sep 2015 12:00 BST - LONDON, NEW BOND STREET
