NEW YORK, NY.- The October 13 Fine Jewelry auction at Bonhams New York features an extensive and distinguished collection of diamond rings, alongside an assortment of one-of-a-kind character pieces, such as a glamorous retro, amethyst gold ring once owned by Hollywood starlet Marlene Dietrich. 

A suite of 18k gold, tiger's eye and diamond jewelry, KutchinskyAmong the top lots is an elegant green diamond and diamond ring, signed Golkonda, weighing more than three carats and set within a circular pink diamond surround (estimate $350,000-$450,000). Golkonda pieces are recognized for superior cutting and polishing with an impressive understanding of balance and design. The brand merges ancient tradition and modern technology in each jewel. 

A rare 3.02 carats fancy intense green diamond and diamond ring, Golkonda. Estimate US$ 350,000 - 450,000 (€310,000 - 400,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• set with a cushion-cut fancy intense green diamond, weighing 3.02 carats, within a circular pink diamond surround, with circular-cut diamond shoulders; signed Golkonda, with maker's mark; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; size 5 1/4 (pink diamonds untested for origin of color)
• Accompanied by GIA report #5101267227, dated June 7, 2013, stating the diamond as: Natural Fancy Intense Green color.
• Inspired by the past to create a vision of the future, Golkonda.com was born out of a deep sense of heritage, passion and spirit of innovation.
• Their signature reflects jewels that are known for their magical and mystical powers because they are set with the finest cut stones. These creations are brought to life by superior cutting and polishing, then pairing with precious metals and an understanding of balance and design. It is believed that the wearer will be empowered and protected, such as with the talisman. This brand merges ancient tradition and modern technology in each jewel.

Also of note is a suite of 18-karat gold, tiger’s eye and diamond jewels, signed by Kutchinsky and featuring a remarkable pendant set with a carved tiger’s eye drop and suspending a gold rope tassle (estimate $8,000-$12,000). 

A suite of 18k gold, tiger's eye and diamond jewelry, Kutchinsky. Estimate $8,000 - 12,000 (€7,000 - 11,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• comprising a pendant, set with a carved tiger's eye drop, suspending a gold rope tassel, enhanced by circular-cut diamond trim; a second pendant, designed as a circular textured openwork plaque, enhanced by a circular tiger's eye cabochon; and a gold rope necklace, spaced by tiger's eye beads; pendants signed Kutchinsky, necklace with maker's mark for Kutchinsky, all with English hallmarks; estimated total diamond weight: 1.50 carats; tassel length: 5 1/2in.; disc pendant diameter: 2in.; necklace length: 30 1/1in.

“The eclectic nature of this sale offers something for everyone, whether it is a tradition colorless diamond, a fabulous piece of signed jewelry, or a chic splash of color,” said Bonhams’ Vice President, U.S. Jewelry Department Susan F. Abeles. 

Other auction highlights include:  

A retro amethyst and 18-karat gold ring, circa 1940. Estimate $3,000-$5,000 (€2,600 - 4,400). Photo: Bonhams.

• centering a rectangular-cut amethyst, accented by a scrolling gallery; possibly Paul Flato; amethyst weighs approximately: 60.00 carats; size 9
• Formally the Property of Marlene Dietrich gifted to members of the present family.
• The above ring was originally gifted to the descendant's aunt, Eva Wiere, from Marlene Dietrich, at the time she was acting as a caretaker for Ms. Dietrich's ailing husband, Rudy Siebert. Ms. Dietrich befriended the German born Ms. Wiere and her three brothers, known as the highly successful vaudevillian act "The Wiere Brothers", in Hollywood in the early 1930's.
• The three Wiere brothers, Harry, Herbert and Sylvester, along with their sister Eva, emigrated to the United States with dreams of show business in the 1930's. The brothers joined together to become The Wiere Brothers, performing throughout Europe before World War II, at such major venues as The Empire and Palladium Theaters, with Command Performances for King George VI. They had a long career on stage and in films, working with such Hollywood royalty as Bob Hope, Bing Crosby and Elvis Presley. They eventually branched out into television with their own variety show in the 1960's.
• Marlene Dietrich, one of the highest paid actresses of her time, was known worldwide for her influential style both on and off the stage and silver screen. She challenged Hollywood's idea of glamour, often photographed in beautifully tailored androgynous clothing – but never without her jewelry. She often adorned herself with large colorful chunky gemstones set in dramatic designs, from Paul Flato, Trabert Hoffer & Mauboussin, and Van Cleef & Arpels. She was a quintessential trailblazer in the 1930's, in both her art and style. 

A diamond ring, Harry Winston, 1949. Estimate $70,000-$90,000 (€62,000 - 79,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• of crossover design, set with two triangular-cut diamonds, weighing 3.64 and 4.80 carats; with baguette-cut diamond shoulders; attributed to Harry Winston; estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.19 carats; size 7 1/4
• Accompanied by Harry Winston insurance appraisal, dated September 17, 1949.
• Accompanied by GIA report #5172259179, dated August 3, 2015, stating the diamond weighing 3.64 carats as: D color, VS1 clarity.
• Accompanied by GIA report #1172259117, dated August 3, 2015, stating the diamond weighing 4.80 carats as: F color, VS2 clarity.

A coral, enamel, diamond and 18-karat gold falconer brooch, Cartier, French, circa 1935. Estimate $12,000-$15,000 (€11,000 - 13,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• designed as a coral hand, with black enamel cuff, holding a textured gold falcon, with a marquise-cut diamond eye, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds; signed Cartier, Paris, with maker's mark and French assay mark; length: 1 7/8in.

An important 7.19 carats diamond ring. Estimate $300,000 - 500,000 (€260,000 - 440,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• set with a marquise-cut diamond, weighing 7.19 carats, flanked by triangular-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 2.00 carats; mounted in platinum; size 4 3/4
• Accompanied by GIA report #5171306017, dated September 1 2015, stating the diamond as: E color, VS1 clarity.

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A 32.20 carats Colombian emerald and diamond ring. Estimate $250,000 - 350,000 (€220,000 - 310,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• centering a cushion-cut emerald, weighing 32.20 carats, within an openwork pavé-set diamond mount, with marquise-cut diamond detail; estimated total diamond weight: 1.90 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; size 6
• Accompanied by Gubelin report #14105139, dated October 27, 2014, stating the emerald as: Colombian origin, indications of minor clarity enhancement.

A pair of Burma ruby and diamond pendant earrings. Estimate $150,000 - 250,000 (€130,000 - 220,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• each designed as an oval-cut ruby and pear-shaped diamond floret cascade, from a scrolling baguette-cut diamond surmount; estimated total ruby weight: 21.94 carats; estimated total diamond weight: 21.95 carats; mounted in 18k white gold; length: 2 1/2in.
• ccompanied by SSEF test report #33630, dated April 12, 1999, stating the 10 rubies as: Burma, (Myanmar) origin, no indications of thermal enhancement.

A 12.26 carats Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring. Estimate $120,000 - 150,000 (€110,000 - 130,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• set with a square-cut sapphire, weighing 12.26 carats; flanked by fancy-cut diamond shoulders; estimated total diamond weight: 1.90 carats; mounted in 18k white gold; size 6
• Accompanied by AGL report #CS 62049, dated July 10, 2014, stating the sapphire as: Ceylon (Sri Lanka) origin, no gemological evidence of heat.
  Accompanied by GRS report #GRS2013-021927, dated February 21, 2013, stating the sapphire as: Sri Lanka origin, no gemological evidence of thermal treatment.

A 11.39 carats fancy light brownish yellow cut cornered rectangular step-cut diamond and diamond ring. Estimate $120,000 - 150,000 (€110,000 - 130,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• horizontally-set with a fancy light brownish yellow cut cornered rectangular step-cut diamond, weighing 11.39 carats, within a scrolling pavé-set pink diamond mount;estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.10 carats; mounted in 18k rose gold; size 6 1/4 (pink diamonds untested for origin of color)
• Accompanied by GIA report # 14889415, dated February 27, 2006, stating the diamond as: Fancy Light Brownish Yellow color.

A 8.10 carats Colombian emerald and diamond ring. Estimate $100,000 - 120,000 (€88,000 - 110,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• centering a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut emerald, with baguette-cut diamond shoulders; emerald weighs approximately: 8.10 carats, estimated total diamond weight: 2.10 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; size 6
• Accompanied by Gubelin Gemstone Report #13100348, dated 18 November 2013, stating the emerald as: Colombia origin, indications of minor clarity enhancement.

A 3.01 carats Type IIa diamond solitaire ring. Estimate $95,000 - 120,000 (€84,000 - 110,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• set with a marquise-cut diamond, weighing 3.01 carats, flanked by triangular-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.00 carat; size 6
• Accompanied by GIA report #2145646855, dated February 14, 2013, stating the center diamond as: D color, Internally Flawless clarity. 
• Further with a supplemental letter #2145646855 from GIA dated February 11, 2013, stating that the diamond in the above referenced report has been determined to be a Type IIA diamond.

A diamond solitaire ring, Harry Winston. Estimate $90,000 - 120,000 (€79,000 - 110,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• centering a pear-shaped diamond, weighing 4.35 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds; signed Winston, with maker's mark JT for Jacques Timey of Harry Winston; mounted in platinum; size 4 3/4
• accompanied by GIA report #1152316774, dated March 15, 2013, stating the diamond as: D color, VS1 clarity.

An art deco colored diamond, diamond, emerald and platinum brooch-pendant-necklace, circa 1925. Estimate $50,000 - 70,000 (€44,000 - 62,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• suspending a navette-shaped pavé-set diamond plaque, centering a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut yellow diamond, flanked by old European-cut diamonds, enhanced by calibré-cut emerald detail, from a fancy link chain;center diamond weighs approximately: 7.00 carats; old European-cut diamonds weigh approximately: 1.50 carats each; estimated remaining diamond weight: 4.70 carats; mounted in platinum; pendant length: 3in.; chain length: 26in. (yellow diamond untested for origin of color)

A Belle Époque diamond pendant necklace, circa 1915. Estimate $28,000 - 35,000 (€25,000 - 31,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• designed as a pierced and openwork pavé-set diamond pendant of drop-shaped design, centering upon an old European-cut diamond, from a fine link chain; center diamond weighs approximately: 4.45 carats; mounted in platinum; pendant length: 2in.; chain length: 17 1/2in.

A diamond and emerald bracelet. Estimate $25,000 - 35,000 (€22,000 - 31,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• designed as a circular-cut diamond openwork band, enhanced by marquise-cut diamonds, with calibré-cut emerald detail; largest marquise-cut diamond weighs approximately: 1.00 carat; estimated total diamond weight: 22.00 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 7 1/2in.

An art deco white jade and coral bead necklace, Cartier circa 1930. Estimate $20,000 - 30,000 (€18,000 - 26,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• designed as a series of graduated carved jade beads, measuring from approximately 12.75 to 14.25mm, spaced by coral beads; signed Cartier, with signed folder; clasp mounted in white gold; length:19in

A diamond brooch-pendant, Cartier. Estimate $15,000 - 20,000 (€13,000 - 18,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• designed as a circular, baguette and marquise-cut diamond wreath; signed Cartier, no. 18258; estimated total diamond weight: 9.60 carats; mounted in platinum; diameter: 1 1/2in.

A 20.00 carats oval Burma ruby cabochon and diamond ring. Estimate $10,000 - 15,000 (€8,800 - 13,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• set with an oval ruby cabochon, measuring approximately 17.72 x 14.06 x 7.80mm, with bullet-shaped diamond shoulders; ruby weighs approximately: 20.00 carats; mounted in platinum; size 6 3/4
• Accompanied by AGL report #CS 68882, dated July 13, 2015, stating the ruby as: Burma (Myanmar) origin, no gemological evidence of heat.

A late 19th century opal cameo pendant and necklace. Estimate $9,000 - 12,000 (€7,900 - 11,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• carved from a single piece of opal matrix, depicting the bust of Hermes, with gold detail, suspended from a fancy link chain; attributed to Wilhelm Schmidt; mounted in gold; pendant length: 2in.; chain length: 30in.
• Wilhelm Schmidt (1845-1938) invented the new process of cutting opal cameos, utilizing the matrix of rough opal for the ground. Carving opal is a hazardous due the fluctuation in temperature conditions. His first example was exhibited at the Paris Exhibition in 1878.
  Schmidt was born in Idar Oberstein, the European center of the mineral, gemstone and lapidary trades and went to Paris when he was 15 to apprentice with the cameo-cutter, Arsene. He eventually settled in London where he carved cameos for many of the best jewelry firms, including John Brogden, Guiliano and Child & Child, and attracted several prestigious patrons including the Museum of Practical Geology.
  Schmidt never signed his work and the cameos he produced for jewelry shops and dealers were never credited to him. Examples, attributed by Seidmann, are in the collections of the Natural History Museum, London, the British Museum and the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge. This opal cameo pendant offered here is a superlative example of the difficult art of cameo carving.
• Literature: Seidmann, Gertrud. 1988. Wilhelm Schmidt: The Last Neo-Classical Gem-Engraver. London: Source Title: Apollo CXXVIII No. 317 (July-1988). For the information given here on Schmidt and his cameos.
  Illustrated Catalogue of Gems, Cameos & Amber Collected by A. Booth, Gloucester, published before 1923.

A citrine and 18K gold necklace, Paolo Costagli. Estimate $8,000 - 12,000 (€7,000 - 11,000). Photo: Bonhams.

• the flexible bib designed as a series of fancy-cut citrine geometric links; with maker's mark for Paolo Costagli; length: 18in.

A 7.08 carats Ceylon spinel and diamond ring. Estimate $7,000 - 9,000 (€6,200 - 7,900). Photo: Bonhams.

• set with a cushion-cut red spinel, weighing 7.08 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds; mounted in 18k white and yellow gold; size 6
• Accompanied by AGL report #CS 69458, dated August 12, 2015, stating the spinel as: Ceylon (Sri Lanka) origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

A gem-set and diamond necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate $6,500 - 8,500 (€5,700 - 7,500). Photo: Bonhams.

• designed as a graduated strand of pink sapphire beads and cultured pearls, enhanced by carved emerald beads, with pavé-set diamond accents, suspending a carved emerald leaf; signed VCA, no. NY51190; mounted in 18k gold; length: 16in.

An art deco rhodolite garnet and diamond clip brooch, Cartier, circa 1930. Estimate $4,000 - 6,000 (€3,500 - 5,300). Photo: Bonhams.

• of geometric design, set with rectangular and square-cut rhodolite garnets, enhanced by old European-cut diamonds;signed Cartier, no. 8718; estimated total diamond weight: 1.25 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 1 3/4in.

A pair of sapphire, diamond and 18k gold ear clips, Cartier, French. Estimate $4,000 - 6,000 (€3,500 - 5,300). Photo: Bonhams.

• each of clover design, set with sapphire cabochons and circular-cut diamonds; signed Cartier, Paris, with French assay marks, no. HPS 0092; 224516; estimated total diamond weight: 1.90 carats; length: 7/8in.