An historic early 19th century Colombian emerald and diamond fringe necklace. Estimate CHF1,450,000 – CHF2,400,000 ($1,495,677 - $2,475,603). Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Designed as a series of nine graduated emerald and diamond square-shaped clusters, the central cluster with a large cushion-shaped emerald drop suspended from a diamond-set scroll mount and flanked by two smaller drops, the diamond collet intersections with smaller emerald and diamond square-shaped cluster drops, circa 1810, 42.5 cm, mounted in silver and gold, in pink leather case.

Accompanied by reports nos. 79796, 79801, 79804 and 79805 dated 2 April 2015 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the origin of the emeralds weighing 4.21, 2.84, 2.22 and 2.17 carats is Colombia, with no indications of clarity modification.

Reports nos. 79802, 79803 and 80244 dated 2 april and 27 May 2015 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the origin of the emeralds weighing 2.73, 2.32 and 1.79 carats is Colombia, with indications of minor amount of oil.

Reports nos. 79794, 79795, 79797, 79798, 79799 and 79800 dated 2 April 2015 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute statingt that the origin of the emeralds weighing 16.78, 8.14, 3.82, 3.78, 3.65 and 3.47 carats is Colombia, with indications of moderate amount of oil. 

Provenance: Christie's London, 20 June 1990, Lot 219
Sybil Sassoon, Marchioness of Cholmondeley (1894-1989)
Princess Hélène of France, duchess of Aosta (1871-1951)
Henri d'Orléans, duke of Aumale (1822-1897)

Literature: M.G. di Savoia and S. Papi, Gioelli di Casa Savoia, Electre, 2002, Milano, p.63 

Princess Elena of France, Duchess of Aosta.

ELENA'S EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

There has long been a tradition in European royal families to offer the most beautiful jewels to one's spouse at the time of marriage. This is especially true when the wedding is a symbolic strengthening of the alliance between different countries. The present fabulous emerald and diamond necklace is one of those exceptional pieces of jewellery that can claim a prestigious list of owners from various parts of the world for almost 150 years.

Princess Hélène (1871-1951) was born into the Orléans family in 1871. Her father, Philippe d'Orléans (1838-1894), Count of Paris, was a direct descendant of Louis Philippe 1st, King of France (1773-1850), and himself pretender to the throne. Of great elegance, Princess Hélène is rumored to have been courted by some of the most important European heirs. After few disillusions, she finally married the Prince Emanuele Filiberto of Italy (1869-1931), Duke of Aosta, on 25 June 1895. The matrimony was a historic event in Europe, widely reported in the international press. Princess Helene officially became S.A.R. la Principessa Elena di Francia, duchessa d'Aosta.

The Illustrated London News, 29 June 1895

On her wedding day, Elena d'Aosta received both a stunning emerald and diamond necklace, and an emerald and diamond tiara from her godfather, Henri d'Orlans, Duke of Aumale. Given the nature and importance of such a European alliance, it is not surprising that the Duke of Aumale chose only the most spectacular gifts for his goddaughter. He was a renowned Art collector, with a particularly important antique book collection: The duke also was a passionate admirer and collector of many important jewels. This necklace most probably comes from his personal collection. The exceptional quality of the emeralds and the delicate craftsmanship, typical of the early 19th century, shows obvious resemblance with the jewellery made during the First Empire, by Nitot or Bapst, for Empress Josephine. The design of the main pendant, in particular, is of the same style as the one hanging on the emerald necklace from the Empress Josephine parure, now owned by Queen Sonja of Norway.

Princess Elena of France, Duchess of Aosta, wearing the Colombian emerald and diamond fringe necklace.

During World War I, Elena d'Aosta got involved with the Italian Red Cross as a nurse to help the victims. As time progressed she developed a passion for travels, and extensive accounts of her time in Africa are written in her published diaries. With Europe in political and social disarray, the fabulous emerald necklace was no longer worn in public and spent many years out of sight. 

Following the war and at some point during the 20th century, the necklace changed hands, and is next seen as part of the equally prestigious collection of Sybil Sassoon, Marchioness of Cholmondeley, the daughter of Sir Edward Sassoon and Baroness Aline de Rothschild. The beautiful Sybil Sassoon was depicted numerous times wearing fabulous jewels by her friend, painter John Singer Sargent, who was a great admirer of hers. Miss Sassoon's collection included, amongst others, a spectacular sapphire parure from the French Crown jewels.

The Countess of Rocksavage (Sybil Sassoon), 1913. By John Singer Sargent. Private collection.

The fabulous emerald necklace and tiara, offered by the Duke of Aumale to his goddaughter Elena d'Aosta, were both in the Marchioness' collection. Upon her death in 1989, part of her jewellery was sold at Christie's, and the emerald necklace consequently became part of a new private collection. Its reappearance today is an exceptional opportunity to admire a jewel of museum-quality. 

CHRISTIE'S. GENEVA MAGNIFICENT JEWELS, 10 November 2015, Geneva