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13 novembre 2015

Hardstone, gem set and diamond pendant-brooch, Tiffany & Co., 1870s

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Hardstone, gem set and diamond pendant-brooch, Tiffany & Co., 1870sEstimate 20,000 — 30,000 GBP. Photo Sotheby's

Of Egyptian design the portrait of carved hardstone foiled to the reverse, the headdress set with circular-cut sapphires, rubies, similarly cut and rose diamonds, brooch and pendant fittings interchangeable, signed Tiffany & Co., fitted case.

BibliographyCf: Clare Phillips, Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837 – 1987, Yale University Press 2006, page 136; Judith Price, American Jewelry, Running Press 2004, page 19 for illustrations of a similar piece by Tiffany & Co. dated 1870-80.

NotesInterest in Ancient Egypt was strong throughout the 19th and into the beginning of the 20th century, influencing many of the decorative arts including sculpture, architecture, porcelain and jewellery. The completion of the Suez Canal in 1869, allowing ships to travel between Europe and South Asia, helped to reinforce this demand. Tiffany & Co were one of the many jewellers who were inspired by Ancient Egypt along with Boucheron, Castellani and Giuliano. Although we do not know who carved the hardstone portraits it is possible that they were produced in Paris by Jean Menu or his son, who also supplied similar pieces to Boucheron.

Sotheby's. Fine Jewels, London, 1 dec. 2015, 10:00 AM

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