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Antique Multi-Stone, Gold Collar Necklace, Paulding Farnham. Estimate: $20,000 - $30,000. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

DALLAS, TX.- A simply stunning Tiffany & Co. antique Multi-Stone, Gold Collar Necklace, designed by legendary Tiffany & Co. designer Paulding Farnham for his prominent New York in-laws — and descended in that same family for more than a century — leads a trio of exquisite Tiffany & Co. designed featured in Heritage Auctions' Dec. 7, 2015 Jewelry Signature® Auction. 

"Paulding Farnham was the head designer for Tiffany & Co. at the turn of the 20th century," said Jill Burgum, Director of Fine Jewelry at Heritage Auctions. "He was married to Sally James Farnham, whose sister was Lucia James Madill, the wife of Dr. Grant Madill, a prominent New York physician. Her father, Colonel Edward C. James, was an officer in the Union Army during the Civil War, then a noted attorney in the city of New York. According to the family, Dr. Madill commissioned Farnham to design this beautiful necklace for his wife." 

Heritage experts now believe Farnham designed this neck ornament after he left Tiffany & Co. in 1908. The neck ornament was formerly in the collection of Mrs. Grant C. Madill, thence by descent to the current owner. 

"Only a superb designer could fashion this five strand neck ornament with so many different cuts," said Burgum, "including heart-shaped, oval, round, oblong and cabochon gemstones, with faceted gemstones. The three dimensional centerpiece of the neck ornament is a green tourmaline cabochon into which is set a pink tourmaline cabochon, mounted atop a faceted citrine." 

This neck ornament is a rare example from a time when elegance and gentility reigned, when one never settled for anything but the best, when jewelry was more than just about the gemstones; it defined a woman's style. 

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Antique Multi-Stone, Gold Collar Necklace, Paulding Farnham. Estimate: $20,000 - $30,000. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

The collar features a pink tourmaline cabochon measuring 8.85 mm, perched atop a green tourmaline cabochon measuring 16.45 mm, supported by a cushion-shaped citrine measuring 23.70 x 20.40 mm, enhanced by heart-shaped citrines weighing a total of approximately 25.15 carats, accented by square and oval-shaped topaz weighing a total of approximately 26.85 carats, pear and round-cut quartz weighing a total of approximately 14.40 carats, oval-shaped green tourmaline cabochons weighing a total of approximately 27.60 carats, complimented by round and oval-shaped pink tourmaline cabochons weighing a total of approximately 8.25 carats, set in 18k gold. Gross weight 200.60 grams. Dimensions: 13-1/2 inches x 1-7/16 inches

Property from a Prominent East Coast Family

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Mrs Sally James Farnham wearing the Multi-Stone, Gold Collar Necklace. © 2015 Heritage Auctions

The Farnham masterpiece in the auction is complemented by a Tiffany & Co, Louis Comfort Tiffany-designed Montana Sapphire, Moonstone, Platinum Necklace , featuring moonstone cabochons enhanced by round-cut Montana sapphires weighing a total of approximately 18.00 carats, set in platinum, along with an elegant Tiffany & Co. antique Citrine, Enamel, Gold Brooch, a citrine cabochon and enamel. 

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Montana Sapphire, Moonstone, Platinum Necklace, by Louis Comfort Tiffany, Tiffany & Co. Estimate: $40,000 - $60,000. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

he necklace features moonstone cabochons ranging in size from 8.00 x 10.00 mm to 22.50 x 34.00 mm, enhanced by round-cut Montana sapphires weighing a total of approximately 18.00 carats, set in platinum, marked Tiffany & Co. Gross weight 68.70 grams. Chain Length: 22 inches - Centerpiece Dimensions: 3 inches x 1-1/4 inches 

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Tiffany, Louis Comfort. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

Initially trained as a painter, American artist and designer, Louis Comfort Tiffany, decided to study the art of glassmaking while he was in his early twenties. His love of nature, combined with his admiration of gemstones, resulted in some of the world’s most exquisite glass, furniture, interior objects, and jewelry designs. His stained glass creations, as well as his Favrile hand blown vases are world-renowned for their beauty, color, clarity, and perfection. Tiffany created a new niche; he combined art with craft, and functionality with aesthetics to design objects for personal adornment as well as useful objects for the home and for interior business décor. His stained glass lamps, candlesticks, chandeliers, and furniture were just as sought after as his brilliantly colored jewelry. Known for demanding perfection, Tiffany reportedly smashed any piece that he deemed flawed in any way. His original creations were sold in his father’s famous Fifth Avenue store in New York City, Tiffany & Co., and the reproductions of his original designs are still sold in that store as well as other highly select boutiques and interior design stores around the world. Much of Tiffany’s work is housed in dozens of museums all over the world. The New York Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan has hundreds of Tiffany objets d‘art on display, and the Morse Museum in Orlando, Florida is home to the most extensive collection of Tiffany’s works. It’s not necessary to visit a museum to see some of Tiffany’s designs; in the United States alone, thousands of Tiffany stained glass windows exist in churches from coast to coast. His work today, if not found in museums or churches, is highly sought after and commands high prices. Lois Comfort Tiffany died in 1933, but his legacy, inspiration, and creations are sure to remain in the forefront of art and design. 

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Antique Citrine, Enamel, Gold Brooch, Tiffany & Co., early 20th century. Estimate: $5,000 - $7,000. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

The brooch features a round-cut citrine measuring 14.30 x 14.00 x 11.20 mm and weighing approximately 10.70 carats, enhanced by citrine cabochons, accented by enamel applied on 18k gold, marked Tiffany & Co. Gross weight 24.30 grams. Diameter: 1-3/4 inches

Another highlights from Tiffany & Co: 

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Colombian Emerald, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring, Tiffany & Co. Estimate: $40,000 - $50,000. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

The ring features a square emerald-cut emerald measuring 9.20 x 8.77 x 6.03 mm and weighing 3.11 carats, enhanced by tapered baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.30 carat, set in platinum and 18k gold, marked Tiffany & Co. A Gübelin report # 12040052, dated April 17, 2012, stating Natural Beryl, Origin Colombia, Indications of Minor Clarity Enhancement, accompanies the emerald. Gross weight 5.68 grams. Size: 6 (sizeable)

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Diamond, Multi-Stone, Cultured Pearl, Gold Brooch, Tiffany & Co., France. Estimate: $30,000 - $50,000. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

The brooch features full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.75 carats, enhanced by tsavorite, spessartite and one pyrope garnet weighing a total of approximately 2.50 carats, accented by carnelian beads and cultured pearls, complimented by round-cut amethysts, with enamel applied on 18k gold, marked Tiffany & Co., reference # 24746569, France. Gross weight 56.80 grams. Dimensions: 3-1/4 inches x 2-1/3 inches x 1/2 inch

From the Tiffany Blue Book 2009 - 2010
This series of brooches is inspired by the birds and butterflies of Tiffany's celebrated 1871 Audubon silver design. The exotic creatures were carefully fashioned to depict the very moment they alight on boughs of polished gold. Brilliant hues of lacquer and gemstones accentuate every flutter that brings them to rest among the magical flowers of an emperor's palace garden.

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Diamond, Enamel, Gold Brooch, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., circa 1970. Estimate: $10,000 - $15,000. © 2015 Heritage Auctions.

The brooch features full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.55 carat, enhanced by polychrome enamel, set in 18k gold with rhodium finished accents, marked Tiffany & Co. Gross weight 50.00 grams. Dimensions: 2-1/4 inches x 2 inches

Tiffany & Co.:Tiffany & Co. remains the largest luxury-item retailer in the world, offering sterling silver, jewelry, crystal, china, stationery, leather goods, and fragrances. In 1837, Charles L. Tiffany and John B. Young opened “Tiffany & Young” in New York City as a “fancy goods emporium” which sold stationery, European decorative objects, Chinese pottery and umbrellas, desks, and silver. Major silver manufacturers, such as Grosjean & Woodward, William Gale, Gorham, and John C. Moore, supplied the flatware and hollowware selections, and by the mid-1850s, “Tiffany, Young & Ellis” (renamed in 1841 with the addition of partner J.L. Ellis) had become the leading silver retailer in New York. In 1852, the company began utilizing the English sterling silver standard, which was later adopted by the U.S. government as the American standard. In 1853, Tiffany bought out his partners to build the jewelry arm of the firm, at which point “Tiffany & Co.” was officially born. With the outbreak of the Civil War, Tiffany & Co., or “Tiffany,” became an arsenal for the North, producing swords, flags, uniforms, and surgical instruments, and supplying rifles and ammunition from Europe. By the end of the 1860s, the firm was creating its own silver designs – bowls, pitchers, tea services, and other tableware -- for which it received major recognition, including an award for excellence in silverware at the 1867 Paris Exposition Universelle and the gold medal for jewelry and the silver prize for silverware at this Exposition in 1878. Wealthy U.S. families, such as the Astors, Vanderbilts, Morgans, and Posts, purchased silver and diamonds from Tiffany, and, beyond this hefty endorsement, the company broadened its sales through a mail order catalog, the “Blue Book,” first published in 1845. When Charles L. Tiffany died in 1902, his son, Louis Comfort Tiffany, became the firm’s first official Design Director. Tiffany solidified its position as both a team-playing American company and an international tastemaker during the twentieth century. With the onset of WW I and WW II, the firm again turned its attention to the war effort by manufacturing airplane parts and surgical instruments. 1940 saw the opening of Tiffany’s new and now legendary store on 5th Avenue, structured like a grand ballroom with special lighting to offset the silver and jewelry. During the post-War decades, Tiffany’s president Walter Hoving brilliantly increased sales by reaching out to a broader customer base: he hired famous designers to create products for the store -- for example, silver jewelry by Frank Gehry, Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso, and Jean Schlumberger and stationery by Andy Warhol – and he opened Tiffany stores internationally. Today, Tiffany operates in twenty-two countries and nets sales of over $3.6 billion.