Queen Nazli wearing the Van Cleef & Arpels's diamond necklace.

Queen Nazli wearing the Van Cleef & Arpels's diamond necklace at the 1939 wedding of her daughter, Princess Fawzia ©Bettmann/CORBIS

The auction also will offer two seminal jewels designed by Suzanne Belperron that were first sold by Sotheby’s Geneva in the landmark 1987 auction of The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor: a Pair of White Gold, Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Couronne’ Cuff-Bracelets (estimate $400/600,000) and a Platinum, White Gold, Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Flower-Head’ Necklace (estimate $350/550,000). Made by Belperron in Paris circa 1935, both pieces have since been lauded as iconic examples of the Duke and Duchess’ visionary connoisseurship of 20th century jewelry design. Their appearance at auction coincides with the relaunch of the Belperron salon in New York this fall. 

Pair of White Gold, Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond 'Couronne' Cuff-Bracelets, Suzanne Belperron, Paris. Estimate 400,000 — 600,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's. 

The double-fluted cuff-bracelets composed of carved chalcedony in the form of stylized crowns, bordered by 14 chalcedony beads, each bead topped by a cabochon sapphire, further decorated by old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.80 carats, internal circumference 6 and 5¾ inches; 1932-1937. With fitted box. 

Provenance: Sotheby's Geneva, April 2-3, 1987, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, lot 125.

Accompanied by certificate no. B35404052012 from Belperron stating that the cuff-bracelets were manufactured in Paris by B. Herz after a design by Suzanne Belperron between 1932 and 1937, and are formerly the property of the Duchess of Windsor. Together with a copy of the original sketch.

Platinum, White Gold, Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond 'Flower-Head' Necklace, Suzanne Belperron, Paris. Estimate 350,000 — 550,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's. 

The double-strand necklace composed of 49 chalcedony beads measuring approximately 13.5 mm, gathered at the side with an articulated floral clasp centering eight cabochon sapphires, framed by five carved chalcedony petals, further decorated by trim set with old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately .85 carat, length 15 inches, with French assay and workshop mark for Groëne et Darde; 1932-1937. With fitted box.

Provenance: Sotheby's Geneva, April 2-3, 1987, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, lot 123.

Accompanied by certificate no. B35504052012 from Belperron stating that the necklace was manufactured in Paris by B. Herz after a design by Suzanne Belperron between 1932 and 1937, and is formerly the property of the Duchess of Windsor.

The Duke and Duchess of Windsor in 1971 ©Yousuf Karsh

IMPORTANT DIAMONDS & EXCEPTIONAL COLORED STONES 
Gary Schuler, Co-Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewelry Division, North & South America, said: “As there are no more Kashmir sapphires yet to be recovered from a mine, the only way to present an exceptional Kashmir at auction is when one emerges from a great collection. To have the opportunity to present to the world a sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire of such size, quality and distinguished provenance as the Ryan family sapphire is truly a privilege. This December we are also fortunate to have several important white diamonds from private collections, each of top quality and possessing both unique characteristics and inherent beauty.” 

Following the record-breaking sale of the Jewel of Kashmir for $242,145 per-carat at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in October, the December sale will offer an Exceptional Platinum, Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring (estimate $3.5/4.5 million), set with a sugarloaf cabochon sapphire of 25.87 carats, and with no indications of heating. This Kashmir sapphire hails from three generations of one of America’s most prominent families: that of Thomas Fortune Ryan (1851-1928), who stands alongside J.P. Morgan, Andrew Carnegie and John D. Rockefeller in the annals of American financial history.  

Property from the estate of Mary Jane Ryan said by descent from Thomas Fortune Ryan III. Exceptional Platinum, 25.87 carats Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring. Estimate 3,500,000 — 4,500,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's. 

Centering a cushion-cut sugarloaf cabochon sapphire weighing 25.87 carats, flanked by two bullet-cut diamonds weighing approximately .40 carat, size 5; 1930s. 

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 68862 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, clarity enhancement: none.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 15100090 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Together with a letter from Gübelin stating that this sapphire, '...possesses a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency, and a finely proportioned cut.'

he selection of impressive top-quality diamond rings from private collections includes the Magnificent Platinum and Diamond Ring (estimate $3.5/4.5 million), set with a square emerald-cut diamond weighing 38.27 carats, D color, VVS2 clarity and type IIA – on offer from the Estate of an Italian Countess sold to benefit her charitable foundation – and the Very Fine Platinum, Fancy Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring (estimate $2.5/3.5 million), set with a pear-shape stone of 6.93 carats, VS1 clarity, the Property of a Lady. 

Property from the Estate of an Italian Countess sold to benefit her charitable foundation. Magnificent Platinum and 38.27 carats Type lla Diamond Ring. Estimate 3,500,000 — 4,500,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

Centering a square emerald-cut diamond weighing 38.27 carats, flanked by tapered baguette diamonds weighing approximately 1.25 carats, size 5½.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 10923367 stating that the diamond is D color, VVS2 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating that the diamond has been determined to be Type lla. 

Very Fine Platinum, 6.93 carats Fancy Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring. Estimate 2,500,000 — 3,500,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

Centering a pear-shaped Fancy Pink diamond weighing 6.93 carats, flanked by two pear-shaped near colorless diamonds weighing approximately 2.10 carats, size 5¼.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2175226546 stating that the diamond is Fancy Pink, Natural Color, VS1 clarity.

The Highly Important Pair of Emerald and Diamond Earrings (estimate $1.8/2.2 million) are set with Classic Colombian emeralds. Known as The Stars of Muzo, the impressive emeralds weighing 22.97 and 21.37 carats are accompanied by two gemological reports stating the stones are unenhanced. These exceptionally rare emeralds are accented by more than 5 carats of D color, Internally Flawless diamonds. An Important Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Earrings (estimate $1,650/1,850,000) are designed with cushion-cut diamonds weighing 29.39 and 28.03 carats, both L color and VS2 clarity, set on the bias for a sophisticated contemporary look. 

The Stars of Muzo. Highly Important Pair of Platinum, 22.97 and 21.37 carats Colombian Emerald and Diamond Earrings. Estimate 1,800,000 — 2,200,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

Suspending two cushion-cut emeralds weighing 22.97 and 21.37 carats, topped by two old mine-cut diamonds weighing 2.01 and 2.00 carats, completed by two smaller old mine-cut diamonds weighing .72 and .70 carat. 

The emeralds, known as the 'Stars of Muzo,' are accompanied by a JewelFolio from the AGL

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 69321-22 stating that the emeralds are of Classic Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement.

Accompanied by Gübelin report nos. 15075261 and 15075260 stating that the emeralds have no indications of clarity enhancement.

Accompanied by GIA report nos. 2175213216, 2145598789, 6173055318 and 5161510078 stating that all four diamonds are D color, Internally Flawless.

Important Pair of Platinum, 29.39 and 28.03 carats Diamond and Sapphire Earrings. Estimate 1,650,000 — 1,850,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

Suspending two cushion-cut diamonds weighing 29.39 and 28.03 carats, surmounted by round sapphires weighing 1.02 carats.

Accompanied by GIA report nos. 5161577567 and 1176125889 stating that the diamonds are both L color, VS2 clarity.

JEWELS BY RENOWNED DESIGN HOUSES 
An extensive collection of Bulgari jewels from the estate of philanthropist and arts patron Adele G. Bergreen coincides with the showcase of Bulgari’s heritage collection in New York. The Bergreen estate includes examples of Bulgari’s most celebrated designs of the 1960s and 70s, including gold link chains, coin jewels, ‘Serpenti’ designs and colorful evening-wear. The highlight of the Bergreen estate is a Platinum, Fancy Colored Diamond and Diamond Brooch, Bulgari, 1964, which features a Fancy Intense Blue diamond weighing 2.47 carats (estimate $500/700,000). 

Property from the estate of Adele G. Bergreen. Platinum, 2.86 carats Fancy Vivid Yellow, 2.47 carats Fancy Intense Blue, 2.09 carats Fancy Intense Bluish Green Diamond and Diamond Brooch, Bulgari. Estimate 500,000 — 700,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

The fanciful floral bouquet set with a marquise-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond weighing 2.86 carats, a round-cornered square modified brilliant-cut Fancy Intense Blue diamond weighing 2.47 carats and a round Fancy Intense Bluish Green diamond weighing 2.09 carats, accented by marquise-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 7.40 carats, further set with round, baguette and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 9.20 carats, gross weight approximately 16 dwts, signed Bulgari, with maker's mark; 1964.

Accompanied by three GIA reports:

No. 2175262591 stating that the 2.86 carat diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, I1 clarity.

No. 2175262649 stating that the 2.47 carat diamond is Fancy Intense Blue, Natural Color, VS2 clarity.

No. 2171262568 stating that the 2.09 carat diamond is Fancy Intense Bluish Green, Artificially Irradiated, SI1 clarity.

Collectors will discover two ‘Drape’ Bracelets by Schlumberger, one lapis lazuli, turquoise and colored diamond, the other coral and diamond, (estimates $20/30,000 each) formerly from the collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon. Mrs. Mellon was known to be a patron of Jean Schlumberger’s jewels and much of her Schlumberger jewelry collection was bequeathed to The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts last year. 

Formerly From the Collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon. 18 Karat Gold, Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise and Colored Diamond 'Drapé' Bracelet, Jean Schlumberger. Estimate 20,000 — 30,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

Composed of links set with lapis lazuli segments, the spacers set with diamonds of yellow hue weighing approximately 5.40 carats, with seven turquoise beads suspended from a gold chain, gross weight approximately 46 dwts, internal circumference approximately 6½ inches, signed Schlumberger; circa 1968.With signed and fitted box. 

Provenance: Formerly From the Collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon.

Bibliography: Tiffany Colored Gems, John Loring, page 110.

Please note the diamonds have not been tested for natural origin of color. 

Formerly From the Collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon. 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Coral and Diamond 'Drapé' Bracelet, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France. Estimate 20,000 — 30,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

Composed of links set with coral segments, the spacers set with round diamonds weighing approximately 6.75 carats, with seven coral beads suspended from a gold chain, gross weight approximately 48 dwts,internal circumference 6¾ inches, signed Tiffany Schlumberger, Made in France; circa 1968. With signed and fitted box. 

Provenance: Formerly From the Collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon.

The spectrum of signed jewels in the sale ranges from late-19th century pieces to modern designs. One of the most elegant necklaces to be offered is an Exquisite Silver-Topped Gold and Diamond Necklace, René Lalique for Lacloche Frères, Paris, circa 1890 (estimate $750/850,000). Composed of 13 entwined ribbon-style links of graduated design and set with approximately 72 carats of diamonds, this necklace is notable as the only collaboration between Lalique and Lacloche known to still exist.  

Exquisite Silver-Topped Gold and Diamond Necklace, René Lalique for Lacloche Frères, Paris. Estimate 750,000 — 850,000  USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

Composed of 13 entwined ribbon-style links of graduated design, the links supporting articulated old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 25.00 carats, the frames further set with smaller old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 47.00 carats, length 14 inches, with French assay and maker's mark for René Lalique; circa 1890. With fitted Lacloche Frères case. 

Notes: René Lalique is considered by many to be the father of modern jewelry. His mixing of high and low materials, his interpretations of the natural world, and his occasional pushing of conceptual boundaries to what a contemporary critic pronounced a “violent” aesthetic make him the clear progenitor of Art Nouveau jewels. As with many great artists, the progression of Lalique’s visual vocabulary began with hints of iconic works to follow, transitional periods imbued with tempered renderings of future trademarks. 

The present necklace captures a moment in Lalique’s career when he had established himself as a superior craftsman but had yet to take full credit for his genius. He began his education at 14 under the tutelage of Parisian jeweler Louis Aucoc and, at the time this piece was created for Lacloche, he was an independent designer. While it was common for important workshops to manufacture for high-end retailers such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Lacloche, these pieces were generally not stamped with a maker’s mark.  By 1890, however, Lalique’s reputation as a creative and superlative jeweler was well known and Lacloche Frères surely recognized that offering a jewel stamped by Lalique was a mark of distinction.

When producing jewels for other firms, Lalique took a more conservative approach, but here we find innocent love knots foreshadowing sinuous snake motifs favored by Lalique just a few years later. When viewed through this lens, diamond pendants become serpent heads and entwined ribbons stealthily encircle the neck. It is the design, not the gemstones, that constitutes the necklace’s true value. Irene Sargent, writing in 1903, observed that Lalique “reacted strongly against the excessive, one might almost say the abusive, employment of diamonds.” Though not humble in size, the diamond drops are magnified by movement, capturing the flicker of candlelight or a conveniently placed bulb. 

It is a historically important necklace, notable not only for its harmonious beauty, but also for being the sole collaboration between Lalique and Lacloche known to still exist. 

A century later, JAR created a Pair of Silver, Gold, Topaz and Diamond ‘Feather’ Earclips (estimate $250/350,000). These earclips were included in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibition Jewels by JAR in 2013-2014.

Pair of Silver, Gold, Topaz and Diamond 'Feather' Earclips, JAR. Estimate 250,000 — 350,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

The stylized feathers centering two pear-shaped topazes weighing 20.99 carats, framed by swirled plumage set with round diamonds weighing 10.75 carats, signed JAR Paris; 1987. With signed box.