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Alain.R.Truong
12 février 2016

A rare late 19th century enamel orchid brooch, by Tiffany, circa 1890

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A rare late 19th century enamel orchid brooch, by Tiffany, circa 1890. Photo Bonhams

Realistically modelled as an Oncidium orchid, decorated in yellow enamel with flecks of brown and white, applied plaque to reverse signed Tiffany & Co, later pin, length 4.6cm. Lot 132. Sold for £43,200 (€55,573) 

NotesIn 1889 Tiffany sensationally unveiled a series of enamelled orchid jewels at the Paris Exposition Universelle. These twenty five hair and bodice ornaments, realistically rendered in gold and enamels, were suspended in the main showcase from fine wires above glittering diamonds. Such was the enthusiasm that greeted them, Tiffany was awarded the Gold Medal and all had sold by the second day. 

Tiffany’s translation of this variety of flower hit upon a sophisticated contemporary fashion for orchid collection. The 19th century passion for plant collecting had progressed alongside hothouse cultivation and the art of botanical illustration. By the end of the century, “orchidomania” had spread from Europe, notably England, to America. Collecting orchids was an expensive pastime and to own the real specimen – or even its bejewelled twin – was the thinking person’s status symbol. 

Jay Gould, the American railroad baron, not only amassed one of the finest private collections of orchids at great expense, but he also purchased a number of the Tiffany orchids – not to adorn his wife but to display in a cabinet for his own enjoyment.

The technical innovation employed to achieve the botanical verisimilitude of the jewels, had arguably never been seen before. Tiffany designers had access to the most recent reference books and sketched straight from live specimens in the studio. Each flower variety was electroformed in copper to achieve the precise mould and the resulting gold jewel was then expertly and faithfully enamelled. 

After the Paris Exposition, Tiffany expanded their number of orchid jewels to around 41 different varieties. These were sold in their shops in New York and Paris and orchids appeared in their sale catalogue until around 1896. This is a rare survivor of one of Tiffany’s most celebrated designs and from a relatively short period of production.

LiteratureLoring, John, Tiffany Jewels, New York, 1999
Phillips, Clare, Bejewelled by Tiffany, 2006

Bonhams. FINE JEWELLERY, INCLUDING WORKS BY ANDREW GRIMA, 7 Dec 2006 - LONDON, NEW BOND STREET

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