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25 février 2016

Damask banyan, c. 1775-1800

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Banyan, Netherlands, c. 1775-1800. Damask. back: L 135 cm, W 247 cm. BK-NM-13160. Donation Esq. JF Backer, Amsterdam, 1924. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam.

Quilted robe of silk damask, great design of vines, flowers and leaves in green twill in red satin ground. Standing collar with button and buttonhole. Pockets in the side seams, sleeves being cut, no shoulder seam, but middenrugnaad.Button loop as closure. Lining brick red cotton bags lined with coarse linen.

This jacket is a derivative of the 17th century kimono; an origin of silk Japanese kimono which was imitated after a period of time in other materials. Because the warp and weft (weft threads) of this substance have different colors creates a color contrast in the damask pattern. This allows the stabbing green flowers against the red surface. It is remarkable that the dust contains many flaws.

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