Callot Sœurs, Evening Dress, c. 1909. Black silk charmeuse, chiffon, and lace; lace fabric hanging from shoulder; silk satin belt; fake jet ornamentation. Label "Callot Soeurs MARQUE MODE DÉPOSÉS, Paris. AC10339 2000-25-1AB ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Taishi Hirokawa

This high-waist empire-style dress, represents the transition of fashion from the S-shaped silhouette shortly before this period to a simple silhouette. However, looking into its structure, the dress incorporates bones to support the silhouette from inside, just as in the women's dresses of the 19th century.
House of Callot sisters opened in Paris in 1895. Mrs. Gerber, the elder of sisters, acted as the chief designer. They achieved popularity by producing elaborate handwork incorporating lace and embroidery.