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1 mars 2016

Jeanne Paquin, Evening Coat, Summer 1912

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Jeanne Paquin, Evening Coat, Summer 1912. Blue silk charmeuse satin and black silk chiffon; collar of silk chiffon; embroidery of Japanese-like flowers and waves. Label "Paquin PARIS 3 Rue de la Paix LONDON 39 Dover Street ETE 1912". AC9110 94-9 ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Richard Haughton

 A shawl-style coat cut from a single piece of fabric. The incision in the center of the fabric combined with the black silk chiffon trimming around the collar creates a nukiemon style, or exposed-neck look. This type of garment is typical of Jeanne Paquin, who sought to achieve both beauty and comfort.
From 1910 to around 1913, many maisons created coats in a generous swing back style, a design feature of which was an exposed neck, as though influenced by the nukiemon look of Japanese kimono.

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