Lot 315. Platinum, 7.01 and 6.98 carats Diamond and Onyx Brooch, René Boivin, France. Estimate 250,000 — 350,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's.

The elongated C-form, with terminals set with old mine-cut diamonds weighing 7.01 and 6.98 carats, accented by calibré-cut onyx, with French assay and maker's marks; circa 1910-1915.

Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from Françoise Cailles

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2165215966 stating that the 7.01 carat diamond is G color, VS2 clarity.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 5161215980 stating that the 6.98 carat diamond is I color, SI2 clarity.

Note: Founded by René Boivin in the 1890s, the house of Boivin holds a remarkable place in the history of jewelry. Boivin was trained as goldsmith and initially earned a reputation throughout Paris for his skill as an engraver. His use of unconventional materials, his remarkable attention to detail, and his unbounding imagination allowed him to create fantastical and beautiful pieces. The French elite found his jewels which were inspired by botany, Animalia, as well as ancient Asian, European and Middle Eastern cultures, irresistible. Following his death in 1917, Maison Boivin was left to his wife, Jeanne, who proved to be a female pioneer in a trade dominated by men. She not only established herself as an innovator and an artist experimenting with color, form, and size, but also as a visionary who is responsible for hiring Suzanne Belperron,  one of the most prominent female jewelry designers of the early 20th century. 

The brooch offered here, features two old European-cut diamonds in a platinum setting, linked together by pieces of calibré-cut black onyx, also mounted in platinum. The curved line of black onyx, which appears to grow out of the old mine-cut diamonds, mirrors the curve of the stones to create a sense of continuous movement in the brooch. The black and white color scheme, simplicity in design and well-proportioned shapes make for elegant and wearable brooch. Boivin created jewelry that was both modern and captivating in design and unparalleled in quality; the jewelry from the house of Boivin still achieves this today, their distinct and forward-thinking designs remaining as they were in the early 20th century.

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