Lot 224. The Oriental Sunrise. A Unique and Rare Pair of Diamond and Coloured Diamond Earrings. Estimate CHF9,500,000 – CHF12,500,000 ($9,756,757 - $12,837,838). Price realised CHF 11,365,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016

GENEVA – On May 18, Christie’s will hold its Spring auction of Magnificent Jewels at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. More than 280 lots estimated in excess of CHF 110 million will be offered in Geneva, including the spectacular Oppenheimer Blue diamond and the Superb Jewels from the collection of H.S.H. Gabriela Princess zu Leiningen. Exceptional jewels from noble, private and important collections, as well as prestigious examples of 19th Century, Belle Epoque, Art Déco, Rétro and Contemporary jewellery designs will dominate the sale.

Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewellery: “It is a privilege to offer jewellery spanning from spectacular 19th Century examples to more contemporary designs. To present together a selection of the Superb Jewels from the Collection of H.S.H. Gabriela Princess zu Leiningen, alongside the largest fancy vivid blue diamond to be offered at auction and a private collection of 36 jewels mainly by Van Cleef & Arpels, is incredibly rare and the perfect start to the 250th anniversary of Christie’s.”

THE ORIENTAL SUNRISE

A rough diamond displaying promising orange coloration is rare and elusive. As a result, when such a diamond is uncovered, its identity and origin are often held as closely guarded secrets. Historically however, orange diamonds have been known to occur in localities producing other fancy-color diamonds, such as Brazil, India, various African sources, and the island of Borne in Indonesia. The magical occurrence of a perfectly matched pair with vivid orange-yellow color and saturation makes these diamonds incredibly unique (estimate: CHF 9,500,000-12,500,000).

Lot 224. The Oriental Sunrise. A unique and rare pair of diamond and 12.20 and 11.96 carats fancy vivid orange-yellow oval-cut diamond earrings. Estimate CHF9,500,000 – CHF12,500,000 ($9,756,757 - $12,837,838). Price realised CHF 11,365,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016

Each fancy vivid orange-yellow oval-cut diamond, weighing approximately 12.20 and 11.96 carats, to the marquise-cut diamond link, weighing approximately 0.73 carat each, and oval-cut diamond surmount, weighing approximately 3.03 and 3.02 carats, 4.5 cm, mounted in gold.

Accompanied by report no. 2165619797 dated 17 September 2014 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 12.20 carat diamond is Fancy Vivid Orange-Yellow colour, VVS2 clarity.
Report no. 2165199632 dated 9 June 2015 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 11.96 carat diamond is Fancy Vivid Orange-Yellow colour, VS1 clarity.
Reports nos. 2214579873 and 6167060840 dated 21 January 2016 and 18 April 2014 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 3.02 and 3.03 carat diamonds are D colour, VS2 clarity.
Diamond Dossiers nos. 5172495644 and 5172495633 dated 18 February 2016 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that both 0.73 carat diamonds are D colour, one is VS2 clarity, the other VVS2 clarity. 

Further accompanied by a hardbound monograph from the GIA Gemological Institute of America, featuring additional photography, data collection charts and gemological research, attesting of the prestige of the Oriental Sunrise, and a letter.

COLOURED DIAMONDS

It is believed that diamond mining in India began during the 4th century BC and was the only source of diamonds for about 2000 years, until new mines were discovered in Brazil in 1725 and then in South Africa in 1866. Chemically pure, Golconda diamonds are limpid and have a very high degree of transparency and brilliance, setting them apart from all other diamonds. The pink diamond, weighing approximately 11.49 carats, is a fine example of the charming and beautiful stones that came from this Golconda region (estimate: CHF 1,000,000-1,500,000).

Lot 237. A charming 11.49 carats Type IIa octagonal-cut Fancy Brown-Pink diamond ring. Estimate CHF1,000,000 – CHF1,500,000 ($1,027,027 - $1,540,541). Price realised CHF 1,145,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016

Set with an octagonal-cut coloured diamond, weighing approximately 11.49 carats, to the plain hoop, ring size 6 ½, mounted in platinum

Accompanied by report no. 16030179 dated 1 April 2016 from the Gübelin GemLab stating that the diamond is Fancy Light Orangy-Pink colour, VS1 clarity, a Note indicating that the diamond is Type IIa and an Appendix stating that this diamond, 'outstandingly pink, displays (...) a superior quality in purity of colour and transparency unique to the finest of type IIa diamonds. Diamonds of this kind (...) are extremely rare and comparable to those famous and exquisite diamonds which originated from the kingdom of 'Golconda'. 

Report no. 5172487962 dated 17 February 2016 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is Fancy Brown-Pink colour, VVS2 clarity.

Other outstanding diamonds includes a pair of fancy intense blue rectangular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.02 and 2.50 carats (estimate: CHF 3,500,000-5,500,000) and a fancy bluish-green diamond ring of 7.58 carats (estimate: CHF 1,300,000-1,800,000).

Lot 196. A rare pair of diamond and 3.02 and 2.50 carats fancy intense blue rectangular-cut diamond earrings. Estimate CHF3,500,000 – CHF5,500,000 ($3,594,595 - $5,648,649). Price realised CHF 4,757,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016

Each fancy intense blue rectangular-cut diamond, weighing approximately 3.02 and 2.50 carats, to the circular-cut diamond link and oval-cut diamond surmount, weighing approximately 2.02 and 2.01 carats, 2.5 cm, mounted in platinum 

Accompanied by reports nos. 2175281674 and 6173281736 dated 24 and 20 August 2015 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 2.50 and 3.02 carat diamonds are Fancy Intense Blue colour, Internally Flawless clarity.
Report no. 2175281780 dated 18 August 2015 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 2.02 carat diamond is G colour, VS2 clarity.
Report no. 1172281775 dated 18 August 2015 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 2.01 carat diamond is G colour, SI1 clarity.

WITH NOBLE PROVENANCE

In addition to the 46 jewels from the collection of H.S.H Gabriela Princess zu Leiningen the auction offers several further exceptional lots with Royal provenance. 

Formerly in the collection of Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain is this beautiful ruby and diamond brooch which formed part of a splendid parure (estimate CHF 50,000-80,000). Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain was the daughter of Princess Beatrice of the United Kingdom, youngest child of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. It is interesting to note that Queen Victoria recalls in her journal receiving the ruby and diamond parure from Prince Albert in 1849.

Lot 188. Formerly in the collection of HM Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain (1887-1969). A mid 19th century Mogok Burma ruby and diamond brooch-pendant. Estimate CHF50,000 – CHF80,000 ($51,351 - $82,162). Price realised CHF 365,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016

Designed as an oval-cut ruby and old-cut diamond cluster within a flowerhead surround, set with ten old-cut diamonds, circa 1850, 3.5 cm, mounted in silver and gold, later rhodium plated

Accompanied by report no. 15080256 dated 1 September 2015 from the Gübelin GemLab stating that the origin of the ruby is Burma (Myanmar), with no indications of heating, and two Information Sheets on 'Rubies from Mogok, Burma' and 'Unheated Rubies'.

HM Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain wearing lot 188

This portrait shows Queen Victoria-Eugénie of Spain wearing lot 188, the ruby and diamond brooch, alongside the earrings, necklace and tiara that complete the parure.
Queen Victoria-Eugenie of Spain was the daughter of Princess Beatrice of the United Kingdom, youngest child of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. She was thought to be the closest to the Queen, staying by her side until her death in 1901. It is interesting to note that Queen Victoria recalls in her journal receiving a ruby and diamond parure from Prince Albert in 1849.

The superb Art Déco tiara by Cartier is the property of a noble Lady. Every time an Art Déco Cartier jewel comes up at auction, it shines with its refinement and elegance. As well as being the golden age of Cartier design, the 1920s and 1930s are synonymous with timeless elegance. What is striking in this jewel is the strong design of stylized fountains. The diamond-set graduated arches are representative of the elegant repetitive style that characterized the Art Déco period (estimate: CHF 200,000-300,000).

Lot 191. The property of a lady of title. An exquisite Art Déco tiara by Cartier. Estimate CHF200,000 – CHF300,000 ($205,405 - $308,108). Price realised CHF 401,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016

Designed as a graduated line of old-cut diamond-set arches, between old and rose-cut diamond line borders, surmounted to the center with a pear-shaped diamond, weighing approximately 4.31 carats, 1920, with French assay marks for platinum and gold. Signed Cartier Londres Paris New York, with maker's mark for Atelier Renault

Notes: Every time an Art Déco Cartier jewel comes up at auction, it shines with its refnement and elegance. This tiara is a prime example of Cartier’s craftsmanship at its best. Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier. It was his three grandsons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing Cartier’s reputation around the world.

As well as being the golden age of Cartier design, the 1920s and 1930s are synonymous with timeless elegance. The use of platinum in jewellery making at the beginning of the 20th century allowed for more freedom in design. It was highly appreciated for its beauty and durability. At the time of the creation of this jewel, platinum had only been used in jewellery for approximately ffteen years; but Cartier’s workshops, the fnest in Paris, such as Atelier Renault, who created this jewel, had already mastered the technique.

What is striking in this jewel is the strong design of stylised fountains. The diamond-set graduated arches are representative of the elegant repetitive style that characterized the Art Déco period. However it is interesting to note that, even though the Art Déco style is synonymous of straight lines and repetitive patterns, the design of this tiara is deeply infuenced by the curved lines of the previous years’ style.

The fountain design had proved very popular and fashionable in the mid-1920s; not only in jewellery, but also in couture and architecture. Notable examples of this fashion include the ‘Parfumerie Française’ stand at the 1925 Paris World Fair, a glass panel by René Lalique, an extravagant dress by Paul Poiret or a diamond tiara by Mauboussin.

The interior of the “Parfumerie Française” at the 1925 Paris Exhibition. Private collection.

“Fontaine” costume, by Paul Poiret. All rights reserved.

A tiara, by Mauboussin. All rights reserved.

Lot 191 is a perfect example of quintessential 1920s fashion. This transitional period gave us some of the best and strongest designs of the century. Signed by Cartier during their most renowned era, it was created by the Renault workshop, who were famous for their delicate work; that only adds to the magnifcence of this tiara.

A 128.10 carat inscribed Mughal Spinel Bead has been consigned for sale by a Royal Family. In India pearls and spinels tended to be worn by the ruler and his most intimate circle. Many of these stones were inscribed with the names of Mughal emperors, some bearing personalized inscriptions in the names of Jahangir, his son Shah Jahan or later owners. It is known that Jahangir was a great connoisseur of gems and his passion for gems was continued by his son, Shah Jahan. The Spinel Bead presented here is a true treasure of nature due to its size, shape and natural pinkish-red colour as well as excellent purity, and its great historical provenance dating all the way back to 1609 and Jahangir Shah Akbar Shah, before being passed on to his son Shah Jahan (estimate: CHF 200,000-300,000).

Lot 238. The property of a Royal Family. A 128.10 carat inscribed Mughal Spinel Bead Pendant. Estimate CHF200,000 – CHF300,000 ($205,405 - $308,108). Price realised CHF 413,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016

The spinel bead, weighing approximately 128.10 carats, engraved 'Jahangir Shah Akbar Shah', dated 'AH 1018/1609-10 AD', and 'Shah Jahan, Jahangir Shah', dated 'AH 1049/1639-40 AD', to the fabric torsade necklace

Accompanied by report 81037 dated 29 June 2015 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the origin of the spinel is Tajikistan, with no indications of heating, and an Appendix letter stating that 'A natural spinel from Tajikistan of this exceptional size and quality is very rare and exceptional. Together with the historical context of such spinels, this jewel can be considered a true treasure of nature'.

Notes: In Indian imperial miniatures such as in the Windsor Padhahnama, which documents the reign of Shah Jahan (1628-1658), pearls and spinels tended to be worn by the ruler and his most intimate circle. Many of these stones were inscribed with the names of Mughal emperors, some bearing personalized inscriptions in the names of Jahangir, his son Shah Jahan or later owners. It is known that Jahangir was a great connoisseur of gems. He was described by a contemporary English visitor, the Rev. Edward Terry, as ‘the greatest and richest master of precious stones that inhabits the whole Earth’. His passion for gems was continued by his son, Shah Jahan.

Emperor Shah Jahan © V&A Images, Victoria and Albert Museum