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Alain.R.Truong
17 juillet 2016

Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

A whiff of freshness, a cool clean breeze, a light trace of flowers. Maybe memories, maybe promises. A deep sense of discretion, demeanor all about a vibrant tranquillity of thoughts, actions, words. The profound self possession coming from true and lasting gentility. A surprising style of dress, enfolding both thrust toward the future and knowledge of the past: billowy capes, airy silks, lavish pleats, in remembrance of Boucher and his enchanting vision of elegance. While reflecting the solemnness of tradition, volumes capture an unimaginable lightness through masterly cuts and exquisite fabrics (ottoman, piqué, double shantung and gazar). A quiver of georgette, with long straight skirt opening onto a swingy pleated skirt. A predilection for navy blue, in mix with white piqué the ever rigorous couture way. The thrill of intense azalea pink. The illusion of colorful confetti flittering in a whirlwind (with two layers of prints heightening the impact in a possible tribute to Divisionism). The spontaneous eccentricity of opposite signs: a standup collar, as elusive as on a man’s shirt, and 19th-century piqué roses all over a black&white polkadot organza jacket. Thick silver-patina buttons, waist flattering belts. Shapes high in energy, with the feel of sudden gusts: skirt snug in back, swingy in front thanks to a precise use of trumpet panels. A curvaceous silhouette, for a figure emerging beautifully from bustier-dresses, basic skirts. Or from exciting low-cut sculpture-jackets. In the pure tradition of Ferré. 

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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  Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

Drawnings

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

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 Gianfranco Ferré, Couture, Spring-summer 1987 © Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré

(Source Fondazione Gianfraco Ferré)

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