Lot 260. An enamelled and gem-set torque (hasli), North India, 19th century; 16cm. width. Estimate 12,000 — 15,000 GBP. Lot sold 21,250 GBP. Photo Sotheby's 2016.

of rigid ovoid form with an applied gem-set rosette to centre and hinged and screw-pin clasp for attaching, the upper side decorated with faceted diamond-set flowerheads and leaves on a white and pink enamel ground echoing the floral design, reverse decorated in green, blue, pink and yellow enamels on a gilt ground with scrolling flowerheads, edges with row of strung seed-pearls.

Note: Mughal craftsmen inspired goldsmiths outside the confines of the court to produce jewellery that combined the ornamentation and refinement of the Mughal court with traditional rural forms such as the torque. This type of necklace might have been worn by the wife of a zamindar (landowner) or merchant. For a comparable hasli, see Markevitch 1987, p.44, no.15 and Untracht 1997, p.352, nos.776 & 777. Another example of similar style but with blue and green enamelwork was in the Jean and Krishnâ Riboud collection, now in the Musée des Arts asiatiques - Guimet, Paris, inv. no. MA6773 (A. Okada, L'Inde des Princes: La donation Jean et Krishnâ Riboud, Musée des Arts asiatiques - Guimet, Paris, 2000, p.155). 

Collier rigide (hansuli), Inde, Jaipur, 19e siècle, diamant, or, perle; donation Jean et Krishnâ Riboud (MA6773). Paris, musée Guimet - musée national des Arts asiatiques. Photo (C) RMN-Grand Palais (musée Guimet, Paris) / Thierry Ollivier

Sotheby's. Arts of the Islamic World, London, 19 Oct 2016, 11:30 AM